Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Im going to replace my turbo this weekend and i was wondering if there anything i should change when chaning the turbo, so far i have the gasket, and engine oil.

Should i replace all the bolt and nuts when changing the turbo and if so where can i get some from? (are they just normal nuts and bolts u get from down at your hardware shop?)

Also any adivce you could give me when changing the the turbo would be awsome

p.s the car is an r33 gts-t

thanks Michael

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/82699-changing-turbo-what-needs-to-be-done/
Share on other sites

You will need coolant as the radiator will drain out.

GAsket for the oil line. New copper washers for the oil and water lines, which are 3 different sizes and hard to find.

If you don't put new washers you can get leaks because you tighten the bolts up to line the holes up to allow the fluids through which may not necessarily be as tight as they can go with old copper washers.

You will need coolant as the radiator will drain out.

GAsket for the oil line. New copper washers for the oil and water lines, which are 3 different sizes and hard to find.

If you don't put new washers you can get leaks because you tighten the bolts up to line the holes up to allow the fluids through which may not necessarily be as tight as they can go with old copper washers.

thanks Abo Bob,

Do you have any idea on the size of the washers (im usisng stock r33 lines)

I want to try and get everything before i pull the turbo apart

i actually reused my old washers the last time i did it. now my turbo out again for the hybrid highflow turbo. It's all depending on the condition of the washers. But i would recommend to get new ones though but tight arse like me, i will have to keep my eyes out for leaks. :rolleyes: ...

thanks Abo Bob,

Do you have any idea on the size of the washers (im usisng stock r33 lines)

I want to try and get everything before i pull the turbo apart

gts_evilution,

you need the copper washers: the stock washers are:

4 x 12mm int. diameter - 18mm ext. dia

2 x 14mm int. dia - 20mm ext. dia

4 x 18mm int. dia - 24mm ext. dia. hope this will help! :)

Doubt you could get them from the hardware shop. There is, however a joint in Parramatta that could match any bolt, nut or washer, cant remember their name. Pretty sure they are only open during business times. It's right opposite Parramatta Jail... I ll post the name when I remember.

ok, i change my turbo this weekend (saturday)

1st thing i would say is get copper washers, i reused mine and it resulted in my car leaking oil; change washer problem fix :D

Also it isnt really that hard to change the turbo on an rb25 once you get the I/C piping, AFM + piping off; its pretty easy :O

Also we didnt snap any bolts off or anything like that, just uses some CRC and they all came off nicely

ok, i change my turbo this weekend (saturday)

1st thing i would say is get copper washers, i reused mine and it resulted in my car leaking oil; change washer problem fix :)

Also it isnt really that hard to change the turbo on an rb25 once you get the I/C piping, AFM + piping off; its pretty easy :)

Also we didnt snap any bolts off or anything like that, just uses some CRC and they all came off nicely

Guys, if the washer isnt physically damaged, why don't you just re-anneal them ??

Its so easy, i do it all the time. Just lay the washers on a piece of metal (like a bench vise jaw etc ) and using a gas torch (no a butane soldering iron wont work)... heat them till they are cherry red hot.

Don't use an oxy, as they will melt........... also dont try this on aluminium ones....

Once hot the washer expands and becomes soft again ready to be squashed once more.

Hope it helps.

Gary

Truely sounds like more trouble than its actually worth. Not to mention, not everyone has access to tools like that, so best bet to be safe and just buy new ones, meh, they cant be that expensive really.

And with the bolts, maybe give nissan a call, although they can be pretty useless at times, you will definitaly need hightensile bolts, and they will be of a fine thread. If you cant find the bolts, in the end, rip one out on a weekday during the day, go down to a bolt shop and say, i want x amount of these, gimme, and well if they dont have them they will order them in. Go whack the bolt back in. and let everyone else know wot size they are :P

Guys, if the washer isnt physically damaged, why don't you just re-anneal them ??

Its so easy, i do it all the time.    Just lay the washers on a piece of metal (like a bench vise jaw etc ) and using a gas torch (no a butane soldering iron wont work)... heat them till they are cherry red hot.

Don't use an oxy, as they will melt...........  also dont try this on aluminium ones....

Once hot the washer expands and becomes soft again ready to be squashed once more.

Hope it helps.

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
    • It's a place for non car talk. There's whoretown which is general shit talking. But also other threads coving all sorts of stuff(a lot still semi car related)
    • Looked it up. It sounds so expensive lmao I'd rather not. Awwwww but I just love that sound
    • If you want the screaming "weeeee" sound, just let the gasket between the exhaust manifold and the turbo break a little. It'll go "weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee" everytime its on boost...
×
×
  • Create New...