Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My door has got this dent in it and i got a quote from the smash reapirs for $300 and they told me i had to take the door apart and they would have to respray the whole thing.

I was thinking of just spraying touch-up paint over the parts where the paint has flaked off.......is this a good idea for the moment to prevent rust or get it fixed asap

post-19216-1123841050.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83868-how-much-would-u-pay-to-fix-a-dent/
Share on other sites

all depends on the quality of the job and whether it'll be a patch up or a respray

ive seen some advertisements for mobile detailers which might be cheaper (dunno bout the quality tho).. they come to your place and just paint the paint chips and from the pics.. looks aiight :)

p.s are you one of my brother's friends? cherrybrook hs?

I got quoted $500 bucks for a repaint on a dented front quarter panel (Which wasn't being panel beated, just replaced) and a scrathed door AND I had to get the panel myself... thought that was a bit much!! So I just got the panel myself for eighty bucks, close enough colour, and used some dodgy touchup paint I found in the boot of my car in a very deep hole... :D

Oh yeh was a cash job too.

the guy that sprayed my car charged me 2500, but ive brought him in over 40k worth of other work. he fixed some damage (rear right panel, bonnet, and straightening of the whole body) he also sprayed my intercooler piping and my windscreen wipers.. he sprayed inside the boot and under the bonnet too, but not the engine bay.

Mate,

If you want to do it yourself and if its your first time at spraypainting/applying putty/quickstop putty/sanding have a read up on articles to do with repairing and spraying. I can give you a quick rundown and by quick i mean cutting corners.

1. Use wet and dry 600 grit sandpaper(hence wet and dry, WET the sandpaper) and take the gloss off the door.

2. After that is done, apply body filler/putty wait til dry.

3. use coarse sandpaper 60-80grit sand it back til smooth.

4. Keep applying 2-3 until it is smooth and everything follows contours.

5. Repair any other dents etc..

6. Spray with primer apply like 4 coats.

7. Sand back with wet and dry 400 until smooth.

8. Check for any pinholes/uneveniness and apply quick stop putty.

9.Wait 4 hrs til dry. Sand back til smooth.

10.Repeat 8-9 til there are no pinholes everything smooth.

11. Spray with paint apply around 4-6 coats depends on your spraying(PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE!)

12.Wait til dry(3 days) polish it.

13. Apply clear lacquer again depending on your spraying depends on coats, spray til glossy.

14.Wait 3 days then polish, then done!

Cheers,

Kory.

$300.00 sounds alright for that type of damage... I just had a section of my front bar resprayed recently and that was $200 (no beating, just sand, fibreglass and spray)

Go for the $300. it sounds ok.

well as a guide i got some cheap stuff done ... front bar and grile sanded , refibreglassed and resprayed... sideskirt refibreglassed as it was cracked to the absolute shit, then resprayed and then stealthwing (which was just raw fibregalss) preped, primed, fitted and painted all for $700

-Ruffels

$300 sounds good.. i had a 1inch mark on my passenger side door plus a 2 meter scratch on the rear from some stupid B*&ch.. total was in the high $600, the door only cost me 150 though because they were already blending the paint into the door from the 2m scratch, therefore $300 for your door compared to $150 for my 1inch scrape is pretty good.. also as TracidTrax suggested if you wanna save money take off the door and sand it all down yourself (saves labour cost) and maybe go to a paint shop and buy/ supply your own paint but make sure the panel beaters allow you to supply your own paint.. i dont know much but these were some tips from my cousin..

hope all goes well..

regards,

-SHONG86-

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...