Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive gone through almost everyone of these pages, i cant find anyone running, 18x10 with a +18 offset on a R32 GTR, Will they fit on my GTR i want XD9's and they only come in a +18

ive gone through almost everyone of these pages, i cant find anyone running, 18x10 with a +18 offset on a R32 GTR, Will they fit on my GTR i want XD9's and they only come in a +18

They fit perfect. I have the same wheels on my GTR with 265/35/18 Federal 595s on. I had some minor scrubbing but nothing a quick guard roll wont fix. :)

offset has nothing to do with brake clearance...

i have had 2 sets of SSR professors, one with low brake clearance and one with hi... the one with hi has a lower offset and clears the brakes by MORE

Hmm

Would 17x8+10 for rears on my 32gtr be ok?

if you wana slice pizza with them yes.

offset does play a part with brake clearance not all wheels have different caliper clearence (too my knowledge) so you would want to be carfeul ie. 18x9 +30 didnt fit on the front of my car it hits the brakes...

the offset is simply the distance from a wheels hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel...

offset.gif

a lower or higher offset will move the mounting surface inside the wheel, but its simply the shape of the spokes that can foul on the brakes.

for instance.... lets take say an 18x9+40 vs an 18x9+10 in the same rim... the brake clearance will be exactly the same on both wheels, as all that has happened is the spokes have moved further inwards.

its easier to imagine 2 or 3 peice wheels such as meisters et al where the centre section can be mounted in different spots by the manufacturer, but will always be the same shape

how is the front bar guna make more low?

what you want to do is get rid of fender gap.. front bar will be low regardless once u do that.

cause the 400r bar sits about 20-30mm lower then my sideskirts

so if i get a higher front bar that sits flush with my side skirts i would just lower it 20-30mm and the fender gap will be gone

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So for the wide band is a Bosch 4.9 correct for the Link G4+ along with a Can bus? Just get the Link gear or is generic ok too? Eg here: LINK LINK DIGITAL WIDEBAND CAN MODULE WITH BOSCH 4.9 SENSOR : KYP Performance House  
    • Bit difficult to follow. Have a look below and see what the standard R32 layout was like. Note there was a restrictor in place immediately before "turbocharged pressure control solenoid" that, if removed, magically got you 1 bar boost.
    • I might be way off the mark here.. there must be a T junction under the manifold. That takes manifold pressure through a check valve prior to the T, one side splits out to this bleed off orifice, the other straight to the wastegate actuators. 
    • Carrying out some engine due diligence before my first drive in a 260RS that has been in storage for 10+ years, and found two lines that are susposed to be plumbed into the boost control solenoid. One of the lines (the wastegate boost supply line) to actuate the gates, had a bolt in one end blocking it. The other line (main boost signal line) from the very rear of the intake manifold (RB26DETT) and runs up to the boost controller had this pill in the end of it as seen in photos. Other than the obvious (T28 Ceramic turbos might well be cooked)  Can anyone shed any light on if there is any validity at all with this mod, bleeding a constant fixed rate of manifold boost pressure off through this 3mm hole?  Is it deliberate?  Was this a 90s Jap mod done to RB26's? Or has someone just fitted this without any idea of what happens to ceramic T28s if they are not gate controlled?    
×
×
  • Create New...