Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, thinking of getting some wheels for my r33 gtst off one of the traders. Been reading the thread but still wanted opinions from some of the more experienced members. I was looking at getting the following specs:

18 x 9 +15 for the fronts

18 x10 +15 for the rears

Looking at running 235s for the front and possibly anything above 235s for the rear. I will be purchasing camber arms and rolling/ flaring my guards as necessary. My questions are:

- how agressive is this fitment? I want to achieve the wide stance without overly sacrificing the life of my tyres. I do understand that camber will come into play, but I would like to avoid having to change my tyres every month just to achieve a particular look

- would 235s at the rear be sacrificing traction? If so, what would be a better recommendation? As I said I'm willing to roll/flare and purchase camber arms, so what combination would be best for the rear

Oh and I forgot to mention that I will be purchasing some coilovers also, but won't be lowering the car to a ridiculous height since I have a driveway I have to get in and out of. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

id be keen to see the results of that combo, thats an inch wider than mine on the back, i dont think you want too much more camber on the back, its got enough already

it would be awesome round a track though.

id be keen to see the results of that combo, thats an inch wider than mine on the back, i dont think you want too much more camber on the back, its got enough already

it would be awesome round a track though.

Mate do you have any pictures of how your car sits? I'd like to have a visual just so I have a benchmark to compare against. And what did you mean about the camber in the back?

Just took the plunge and bought myself some Ame Circlar Spec R in 18x9 +15 and 18x10 +15 from one of the traders (Autotechnik). I'll post up some pics when all the work is done. Probably in a couple of months. :)

you'll need alot of camber in the rear, and the front on stock guards will fit with a roll but will have to stretch

tyre life wont be good at all.

should have pics of my 9.5+13 and 10+9 end of next week.

you'll need alot of camber in the rear, and the front on stock guards will fit with a roll but will have to stretch

tyre life wont be good at all.

should have pics of my 9.5+13 and 10+9 end of next week.

Awesome, looking forward to the pics. Also I spoke to PhilB (from this site and JDMST forums) and he said that he ran similar specs and for the rear, with a bit of rolling and a flare/pull he was able to minimise the amount of camber that had to be run. So fingers crossed I suppose. And luckily for me the skyline isn't a daily driver so hopefully that will minimise tyre wear. :)

My car for example. Previous wheel: (f) 17x9.5 +0 and ® 18x10.5 +15 lots of camber on the front, something like -4 and stretched tyres all round

5457384945_9eee29df84_o.jpg

Awesome, thanks for the photo blags. Car looks awesome!

;)

pretty sure 10+15 will need fair bit of camber if you are only rolling, my camber arms are on full for the 10+20

So alex, your guards were just rolled? I'll be getting mine pulled and/or flared at the rear so hopefully this will allow me to run less camber. So what is the maximum camber setting at the rear for an r33 (in degrees)?

Anyone fitted 18 x 10 + 15 on there 32 gtr? any photos? modifications required?

was thinking of putting 255's or do you guys reckon definately 265's.

Cheers,

Thanks

did u end up fitting the 18x10 +15 rims, got pics or comments on the fit?

Thanks for input earlier guys, ended up getting the 18x10's with +22

So next question i have is tyres

Obviously there are so many to choose from but ones i'm looking at are Toyo's flagship T1 Sport tyres

Sizes i was considering were either 265/35, 275/35 or 285/35

I'm kinda leaning towards 275 at moment

Anyone know if i'll have any clearance problems if i choose the 275 or 285 options?

any updates? pics?

im looking at 18x10 +15 on R32 R

I'm running 18x10.5 +15 TE37s on an R32 GTR with 265/35R18 semi slicks on them and I had to get the guards rolled slightly and the rear raised a tad.

They stick out a little but look f**king awesome IMO.

285446_10150376304278986_711878985_10328092_8284127_n.jpg

268030_10150376303983986_711878985_10328080_4947951_n.jpg

265036_10150373244248986_711878985_10307687_1522776_n.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...