Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Takz,I took some photos for you to look at this arvo.The second shows the rim with the nuts (cant get a socket in there).The thrid is is from the rear (the tyre sticking out past the guard) And the fourth, i was trying get a shot of the wishbone interfereing with the tyre, but i coudnt get enough light in there Anyway, let us know your thoughts.Cheers heaps!post-88466-0-86027000-1318849801_thumb.jpgpost-88466-0-96125600-1318849981_thumb.jpgpost-88466-0-12065800-1318850029_thumb.jpgpost-88466-0-99251300-1318850074_thumb.jpgPs i cant work out the editing of this thing. Its all over the shop.<BR><BR>

Edited by thegreentanya

Hi INASNT,

I was just wondering how you managed to fit your wheels? I have recently purchased some 18 x 10's, but didnt do enough research and after getting tyres and putting them on, have found out that they stick out way past the guards (1 & 1/2 on the back, 1" on the front) and the front tryre also interferes with the suspension wishbone. I got em off Vision R on ebay, and they were described as

Rota GR6-2R, 18 x 10, 5x114.3 +15, Skyline, Silvia Evo

..................silly me! The stud pattern is about the only thing that fits nicely, and even then i will be forced to get extended wheel nuts as the originals dont have clearance between the rim and nut to fit a socket on.

So......................no its a little late, I thought i had better finally do some research, and i gathered this skyline forum would be the ideal place to make a start. Is there any way i can do to make these work ? Is this even legal in Queensland ?, as i dont think I am allowed to have my wheels 1" & 1/2 out side of my wheel arch (it kind resembles a tractor now, and traction would no longer be a problem haha).

And lastly, if i cannot get these to work, has anyone got a project car going that would be in need of a brand new set of wheels and rubber? They are white, six spokes, Jap looking wheels, and have been coated and cleared with white/silver irradescent pearl, so they look quite nice...................spewing they dont fit!

This is the details i have:

Skyline model = R33 GTST

Wheel diameter = 18"

Wheel width = 10"

Wheel offset = +15 (pretty sure)

Tyre size = 255/40/18

Modifications to fit = ???

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!

Cheers!

you can make these fit easy

lower the rear and get camber arms with a stretched tyre wont be an issue at all, the fronts grab some camber arms and a smaller tyre and again easy as.

not a big problem at all

Easy eh?..................I like the sounds of that! haha So would TAKZ be correct in recomending the 225s? Where do i purchase these "camber arms" you speak of, what is the going for a front and rear set, and what is invloved in lowering my car? (I must sound like a complete reatrd with all these Q's.....sorry) Thanks in advance for all your help everyone. Cheers

you can probably get away with 235/40, alot of people find 225 too much of a stretch!

lowering can be done several ways but my opinion is to get height adjustable coilovers that way if you havce the flexibility to adjust the height whenever you want, unless you already have coilovers in the car?

don't forget you'll need to get your guards rolled once you lower the car

Edited by TaKz

you can probably get away with 235/40, alot of people find 225 too much of a stretch!

lowering can be done several ways but my opinion is to get height adjustable coilovers that way if you havce the flexibility to adjust the height whenever you want, unless you already have coilovers in the car?

don't forget you'll need to get your guards rolled once you lower the car

this isnt entirely true. sure you can roll it up and down...but technically you should get an alignment done every time you move it, as it throws the geometry out (depending on how far you go)

this isnt entirely true. sure you can roll it up and down...but technically you should get an alignment done every time you move it, as it throws the geometry out (depending on how far you go)

I thought this was easy? Now i gotta get adjustable coilovers to?.........dammit, its all starting to add up haha. So in theory, 235/40's will fit without adjusting my ride height (and adding coilovers), but its gonna look like shit, is that correct? And the camber arms? Will that solve my front wishbone interference problem, or will smaller dia tyres do the trick? And what happens if i dont get the camber arms? Does that mean i will be running negative camber and chewing through tires (and money)?

Cheers

well coilovers arent much more than just getting lowered springs done with shocks, and very easy to do yourself. without lowering it will look gayer than aids, so thats something you need to take into consideration. and you will need to get it aligned then anyways, so throw them in, put em at the height you want then get them aligned.

as for the camber arms and issues, not sure man, you might just be right with the smaller tires, suspension does roll in to negative camber naturally as you lower it.but coilovers or lowered springs is a must (coilovers for adjustability whould be the best way to go.)

just thought i would add a few pics to show people where the maximum rim size/offset lies for not having to run camber to make wheels fit and still being flush with 'unpumped' guards on the rear.

So this is the rear of my R33 GTST. I have 18x9.5 rims with +38 offset. (Starcorp Racing Impuls- deep dish option) with 275/35/18 tyres on them.

This car is lowered on BC coilovers and running .5 degrees camber (i needed adjustable camber arms to achieve this after lowering the car. On standard arms the most i could get to was about 1.2 degrees).

As you can see these sit dead level with the guards with these rims n tyres. I did have to cut out the guard lip but did not 'pump' the guards at all.

Just thought this might be a good reference point for those wondering what the maximum fitment was in this ballpark without having to run camber or pumping guards.

Cheers

Justin

P.S. i won't comment on the front fitment of the Starcorp impuls as they do not sit flush with the guards (are a 18x8.5 +38)- they sit inside the guards. But what i do know is that they do not rub in any way shape or form with a 235/35/18 tyre and on lowered suspension.

post-68049-0-48319800-1319523000_thumb.jpg

post-68049-0-52032400-1319523054_thumb.jpg

post-68049-0-57260300-1319523060_thumb.jpg

post-68049-0-78082800-1319523065_thumb.jpg

Edited by jjman

nah i prefer to actually get power down as opposed to going for the cambered, stretched tyre look :thumbsup:

n with the front wheels sitting inside the guards n the rears sitting out where they are with no camber n the big tyres gives it a drag car look. Im happy with that :cheers:

Just wondering why your wheels arnt sticking out past the gaurd in the rear like mine. I have the same offset etc on the rear. Is it because its lowered with camber arms?? Cheers.

18 x 9 +15 (fronts) and 18 x 10 +15 (rears) - pictures as promised :)

29oki7d.jpg

11jastu.jpg

Just wondering why your wheels arnt sticking out past the gaurd in the rear like mine. I have the same offset etc on the rear. Is it because its lowered with camber arms?? Cheers.

Easy answer to that one - I had the rears flared and pumped out another 40 mm. I'm also running camber (-2.2 degrees) which I will be getting readjusted as that's a bit aggressive. I was just playing around with the camber settings and started off with 2.2 - I'll most likely be running -1.8 degrees which will sit just a little out from flush.

Oh and sorry, I am running after market camber arms (I think the brand is "hardrace") which I bought from Just Jap in Kirrawee. The reviews for that brand were good so I decided to go with them.

Tyres I'm running are 235/40/18s for the rear and 225/40/18s for the fronts.

Edited by spacepants_fb

Looks nice!!! What size tyres?

Also why does your front bumper look bent?

I believe front is genuine/replica GTR item 'massaged' to fit a GTST.

Hahaha...good eye mate! Yeah it is slightly bent and malformed at the bottom of the bumper. The car came with this front bumper when I originally bought it from Kujotk who is (i think) still an active member on SAU. And unfortunately, it isn't a genuine GTR item as Nav suggested - it is a fibreglass bar that was designed as a replacement front bar for a GTR. When it was fitted on the car, it was a little too wide and so after a few driveway scrapes it started to produce the bend that you can see.

On the wings is a replacement bar and possibly a respray so at this stage I will just run it until it's time to get the respray done.

And tyre size question answered on my previous post. :)

Edited by spacepants_fb
  • 3 weeks later...

Hey All,

i have spent the last 45 mins going through all 78 pages of this thread lol and i cannot find any obvious combos with these sizes

I am looking to put these on my R33 GTST which has full height adj suspension but nothing else. I would like to avoid rolling the guards if I can but will if i have to.

19x9 +38

19x9.5 +45

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

yeah that should fit no worries as long as you dont intend to dump it 'hektic styles'.

Tho im more thinking in terms of 18's so im not sure how much of a difference 19's would make.

At stock ride height my 33 gtst took 18x9.5's +36 with 265/35/18's on and didnt touch the rear guards. (did when lowered tho)

All things being equal tho. Be open to needing to cut/roll ur rear guard. Its no big issue if done right and offset never looks quite right unless the tyre is in the range of rubbing where that rear guard/lip is...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
    • The stock manifold is "mostly" divided. The divider actually has a notch cut out of it where it would meet the divider on a twin scroll housing. I have no idea why. But whatever the reason, it would cause some cross talk when used with a twin scroll housing. People do put twin scroll housings onto that manifold. But I'm of the opinion that proper twin scroll internal gating is...not really possible at this scale. You'd be throwing good effort (ie $$) after bad, when you really should be doing something else. Notwithstanding that.... I am not sure what the idea that you are floating has to do with the difference in comp cover position caused by the highflow using a shorter length core than the stock Hitachi one. Can you clarify what you meant?
    • Majority of regulars are > 30. We all act at least 50. Definitely not friendly as we're all grumpy. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...