Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Funny you should mention that.....

I'm in the middle of a conversion right now

Costs are

Gearbox $500 -700

Flywheel $100 -150

Clutch $ 200 and up

Clutch Pedal $20

Hydraulics $80

Spigot bush $7

Interior bits $30

Tailshaft $100-150

so approx $1500 plus labour,

If you could get a drive in drive out for under $2k, you'd be laughing.

and the auto stuff you pull out is worthless, I want $50 for the lot... trans, tailshaft, shifter etc, but nobody wants it.

shop around bud and make sure you upgrade your clutch while your at it....i had my first r32 done 5 years ago for $1800 at jaustec and ive got a friend getting a silvia done for $1200 soon.....but if you get a bargain price make sure you get a warranty aswell..i think most places will give you a month...

shop around bud and make sure you upgrade your clutch while your at it....i had my first r32 done 5 years ago for $1800 at jaustec and ive got a friend getting a silvia done for $1200 soon.....but if you get a bargain price make sure you get a warranty aswell..i think most places will give you a month...

No worries, will do. Is it worth going for a GTR gearbox instead of the stock GTST?

Cheers again

Really? That sounds like a good price. Is FBI their actual name or is that an acronym for their actual name?

Cheers

Acronym for Four Brothers Import. Their located on Hampstead Rd somewhere, cant miss it as they have a display of imports out front.

Gearbox wise it depends what you're planning on doing to the car, I know first-hand RowdyR32 had a 220+RWKW RB26 in front of a stock RB20DET g/b, he wasn't habitually doing hard/drag style launches in it, but did do several track days, and it held up fine.

I would definately get a heavier clutch though, doesn't need to be anything fancy, just a heavy-duty organic. i.e. Daikin.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...