Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

g'day all

unfortunately, the time has come to part with my line. it's been a short but much loved affair with my car but the expenses of gtr ownership for a 20year old is, perhaps, just a little out of my reach at the moment.

i've loved this car more than life itself since i've owned it. lots of time and money has been spent in making it one of the cleanest 89 gtr's i've ever seen. Anyway, feast you senses on the list below.

’89 Nissan Skyline BNR32 GTR – 15 Year Import

Trust Aftermarket Intercooler (far better flow than stock GTR unit)

M’s (Mines) Aftermarket Air Filters/Adaptors

HKS Piping Kit

Good quality European silicon hose with all worn clamps replaced.

2x HKS Sequential Blow Off Valves (cast mounts part of HKS pipework)

Bilstein Dampers (modified by A.C.T Bilstein distributor Chris @ Inline Steering & Suspension)

Eibach Race Specification Lowered Springs (very stiff)

Camber Kits FR + RR

New CV boots

Aftermarket adjustable arms (nice ones)

17x9” Genuine Nissan R33 GTR Forged Wheels (fetch around $2000/set 2nd Hand w/o rubber)

255/45/ZR17 BFGoodrich Profiler G Tyres w/ good tread. Rotated regularly (~$420ea rrp) recently replaced with new 255/40/17's 100% tread)

Full 3 ¼ JASMA Exhaust (modified locally for better flow. Straight-through middle hotdog)

Aftermarket Front Pipes

Remapped Japanese-Spec factory ECU (Dyno-proven safe/good Air/Fuel Ratios)

Replaced Turbos (believed to be aftermarket Nismo N1 types or similar – Ref: power curve/output)

Aftermarket Remote oil filter assembly

Aftermarket European-made 21-Row oil cooler

Aftermarket Slotted/Crossdrilled/Vented FR rotors. (heaps of meat on them)

Aftermarket Slotted/Vented RR Rotors (also heaps of meat on them)

EBC Greenstuff Pads FR + RR (again, heaps of meat)

Blitz Fully automatic turbo timer w/boost guage.

MOMO Race steering wheel w/boss

Full 3point aftermarket Mongoose M80 alarm/immobiliser. Aus Standards Approved. Central locking with shock and microwave sensors and all the other fruit (~$700ish fitted locally with warranty)

Replaced rear sub-frame/cradle w/ replaced bushes

Brand new battery

Cusco master brake cylinder brace

Aftermarket clutch assembly (unknown make)

Redline Lightweight Shockproof Gearbox oil. Redline FR + RR diff fluids. Replaced recently

Motul 8100 oil changed every 3500-4000kms or so

Aftermarket gear knob

Aftermarket Spitfire boost guage

Aftermarket Philips-made High brigtness Highbeam globes

Nismo (or Nismo-style) Fibreglass front bar with nostrils

Nismo-style under spoiler rear lip

Locally refurbished air conditioning system. Gas changed. A/C wiring modified.

Full A.C.T. Engineer’s certificate (John Wilson engineering)

Lots of receipts for work performed since landing in Australia

Timing belt changed in Japan.

127,000 Kms

Nismo R33 LM-Spec/Calsonic Racing blue. Resprayed in Japan (awesome job. very tough paint so i've been told)

Custom Number plates “RB 026”

Custom dashboard lighting (blue)

Sabelt 4-point racing harness w/shoulder pads

Aftermarket security wheel stud bolts (expensive)

New rear windscreen rubber. All corrosion was eliminated in the process.

Serviced regularly and exclusively by Ed @ Integra Automotive (Lanyon Drv. Queanbeyan)

Pulled 205.9 Kw at the wheels on the Autotech services Dyno Dynamics dyno on 7psi (now 10psi max). doesn’t look like its ever been boosted more than that (restrictor WAS in place - even if reefing it out made stuff all difference)

Compression and leak-down tests reveal a healthy engine (140psi, +/- 4psi across all cylinders)

i also have some stereo gear that STILL isn't in the car cos i've been THAT lazy that can be negotiated on should anyone want it NOT included in price of car:

phoenix gold zpa0.3 x2 (rrp $3000ea)

phoenix gold zpx2 xover (rrp $800)

clarion drx-9255 audiophile deck (rrp $1800)

dynaudio system240mkII (rrp $1000)

orion concept97.2 difital eq (limited edition deq30). i have it on good authority that about 15 of these were brought into the country. rrp back in the day on the concept was $5000 i believe

sub was sold (was adire audio brahma 10") (rrp $900)

lots of stinger/aerpro accessories etc etc

lots of sound deadener matt (g-spot)

Any test is welcome for my baby, but please, no time wasters. If you want to know any more information on it, don't hesitate to contact me ([email protected] or PM me). I'm chasing $27,000 or offer closest to it.

*** CAR IS SOLD ***

Cheers!

David

Pics!!!!

post-11016-1124415244.jpgpost-11016-1124415373.jpgpost-11016-1124415392.jpg

post-11016-1124415410.jpgpost-11016-1124415429.jpgpost-11016-1124415448.jpg

post-11016-1124415474.jpgpost-11016-1124415495.jpgpost-11016-1124415516.jpg

post-11016-1124415546.jpgpost-11016-1124415577.jpgpost-11016-1124415613.jpg

Edited by djhatton
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84594-fs-modified-bnr32-gtr/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

2 things:

1 nice car

2 if you want to sell the sabelt harness give me a shout. (also even if you don't want to sell it my advice would be to take it out as it may put people off - they will get the wrong idea about how the car has been treated).

best of luck

2 things:

1 nice car

2 if you want to sell the sabelt harness give me a shout. (also even if you don't want to sell it my advice would be to take it out as it may put people off - they will get the wrong idea about how the car has been treated).

best of luck

fair call, however, those that see the car in the flesh will see that it has been treated with a modicum of respect. and, if you speak to any of the canberra sau guys, they'll tell you how pedantic i am with the car.

if the new owner doesn't want the harnesses, i'll shoot you a pm.

cheers!

thats a damn good price buddy someone snap it up!

thanks very much dude. aaaah goddamit i'm gonna miss her! if i weren't planning a BIG o/s trip, i most certainly wouldnt be downgrading. how am i really supposed to enjoy anything else this side of another gtr (or evo VIII). anyway, i'm chatting in my own for sale thread, but cheers man.

thats my avatar!

HAHA! yeah but mines... well... bigger....

d

I'll personally vouch for this car (if my word has any weight to it,LOL) for anybody interested in a SERIOUSLY good buy! I'll miss it when,not if,it sells...sniff!

I'll personally vouch for this car (if my word has any weight to it,LOL) for anybody interested in a SERIOUSLY good buy! I'll miss it when,not if,it sells...sniff!

thanks mate. :)

yeah i didn't think i'd have too many problems selling. but still early days i spose. must just be that time of year... nobody seems to want gtr's anymore!!! :)

car's gotta move, peeps. willing to accept offers, perhaps trades for the right alternative.

cheers

david

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...