Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

My car has always used 13-13.5 litres of fule per 100K's in city driving. It is frustrating because it dosent matter if i drive like a granny or give it a bit of stik i get the same consumption.

This hasnt really bothered me much untill now as the price of fule means $20 is like 120-130K's.

The wierd thing is i just got back from a 400km round trip and i was amazed to see my consumption on the highway was like 10-10.5 litres per 100K's.

Could it be that my car is running to ritch that is why with lots of stop start driving i get shoddy consumption?

Oh yeah car specs is 3" exhaust, fmic, bigger turbo, 1 bar boost(not that boost maters much sice granny driving has no effect) pod, remaped computer, z32 afm, ebc.

Any insight or suggestions on how to bring city driving consumption down or if this is usual behaviour.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84743-r32-gts-t-fule-consumption-questions/
Share on other sites

fuel.....????

It could be that you are driving a sports car and cant compare it to a mirage or getz!!!! Its a pretty small engine in a largish car with not the best aerodynamics, 14 litres per hundred can be improved on but its not terribly bad

thats nothing to complaign about mate, i got a 2.4ltre atmo motor thats going through 17ltres per 100km... and im a freaking pizza boy!

of course its gonna drop on the highway. lol

you're sitting at like 100-110km/h for long periods of time. the revs dont change...they stay steady

stop start city driving, even grandma style, the revs are constantly up and down, which means you'll use more fuel.

hey mate,

your getting okish figures there for those mods atm. the nissan manual states avg fuel consumption on a rb20de/t r32 should be about 12l/100km. my r32 gets about 13.5l/100km in city driving too.

youre just noticing it more because fuel prices really suck now (and prob are gonna stay that way from now on)

Edited by flagger

yeah.. they suck it around the city, as you tend to be on boost a fair bit to get enough power to drive about, accelerate from the lights etc. So mine is around same.. Highway its down to about 10L/100km which is pretty good for a 6cylinder.. so really - unless you drive all country, just deal :(

i have changed o2 sensor, etc but still fairly high.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey, it's me! Though honestly, if I had 20M in my bank account tomorrow, I would not want to be rid of my car all of the sudden - Which makes me think this is money stuff, not "I actually hate car" stuff. I'd probably double down and buy even more trinkets and fun things for it. If this is not you, then sell it cheaper. It will sell at a certain price after all.
    • This is the LCA mount reloctaion kit. Self explanatory in its description. https://au.gktech.com/products/s13-180sx-r32-subframe-anti-squat-reduction-weld-in-kit?_pos=62&_fid=1e812d392&_ss=c These are the alloy subframe bush inserts that I am using. I like them. https://au.gktech.com/products/rear-subframe-slip-in-collars?_pos=29&_fid=1e812d392&_ss=c Alternatively, if you have original and shitty bushes, you might consider outright replacement with poly. https://au.gktech.com/products/polyurethane-rear-subframe-bushes?_pos=28&_fid=1e812d392&_ss=c I would also higly recommend that you look into adjustable RUCAs and tension rods, so you can sort out the camber and bump steer behaviour, especially if the car will be any more than ~15mm lower than stock. I would also highly recommend the GKTech FUCAs, although you really should do some research and learning on the subjetc of R32 FUCAs before making any decisions. All of this will be criticaly difficult to get through a TÜV inspection too, if that happens to be relevant to you. Note that if you do install the relocation kit, you will absolutely have to replace the associated bushes with spherical joints (you can read all about that on the product page) or upgrade the LCAs also.
    • I picked up my block and head last week and have been slowly assembling it since then. Pictures I took earlier this week. The rest of the auxiliaries are on now. I just have my intake manifold runners to tap for my WMI direct port setup before putting it back on. I should hopefully have the motor back in by this weekend.   
×
×
  • Create New...