Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Coming from somebody who's stuffing one into an S13, save yourself the trouble!! Getting a decent rb26dett (good compression and leakdown #s) took me 5 months with an importer's help, I haven't wired it in yet so I still don't even know how it runs. Ofcourse I live in the U.S. where importing from Japan is much more difficult, you aussie's get first pick DAMN-IT.

Here's what I've gotten out of my own prodject.

The SR is by far more complementing to the Silvia's weight distribution. Not only does it weight around 180lbs less, but because it's 2 cylinders shorter it's center of gravity is much closer to the center of the car.

The SR is a very high strung motor when pushed to the natural hp #'s of the rb26.

The fitment issues of the smallest siliva, the S13, are not a problem with motor mounts from mckinney. http://www.mckinneymotorsports.com/ These guys know more about swapping any rb into any silvia more than ANYONE. Give them a call, only if you're serious, these guys are Extremely helpful and knowledgeable.

If I were to do my project all over again, I would be very tempted to go with the SR, as I DREAD, the day my RB needs internal parts. I don't think I've ever seen parts prices so high !! :D

My car would definately dominate yours on a drag strip, but unfortunately, my love is for circuit racing, for which a properly modified SR would be ideal. Goodluck man, let us know what you figure.

My two cents is just an added bit to your search, but if you want to know what's possible and what's not, call those guys at Mckinney!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84820-rb26tt-into-s15/#findComment-1554735
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
    • House of Fatz dry dock needs a clean sadly one of the long time stables is leaving this weekend   see ya mr purple
    • Hence why I've only modified my car into a pure daily. Everything has to remain reliable & roadworthy, while providing value and grin factor. It also must not be handcrafted to the extent that the car will be immovable if something breaks because you cannot get or make a replacement to at least limp around with.
×
×
  • Create New...