Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Couple of GTST questions

I'm planning on getting a skyline gts-t once I sell my current car.

It will be an every day car and I do upto 400km a week but even with the extra fuel guzzling of a gts-t i'll probably still be doing a few hundred each week. I don't want a lecture on getting the non-turbo in that case or not thinking about a skyline cos i've made up my mind and a skyline is the way i'm going.

At the moment all the ones iv'e like have been a 95-96 gts25t ecr33. Is there any specific model I should look for or stay away from? I'm looking at spending 10 - 15k on the car.

I'm after a pretty much stock car since I want to do it up myself not drive around in someone else's done up car. I'm trying to decide wether I should get one with around 50 - 65k km on it and only have 1-2k to start modifying it with or to get something 3 - 4k cheaper with around 100k+ km on it so I can do more to the car.

I don't want to buy one with over 100k km on it just to have to spend alot of money on it next year cos it's stuffed so i'm just wondering if there's a cut off on how many km's it should have before I shouldn't even consider getting it?

For a decent budget to modify it I've seen some alright ones with upto 115k km on it, is that too much and will give me too much trouble in the next year or two considering how much it will be driven?

I'd really rather have the extra cash to spend on the car but not if i'm just going to have to fork out more in a year or so to keep the thing running.

I'm also having a look around trying to get a heads up on what i'm gonna do to it and such. As with anyone I want the exhaust to sound nice since i've head some shockers around here.

Poking around the lukey site I found this file for a VX commo http://www.lukey.com.au/growlsounds/Track6sound.mp3 onbviously it's a much bigger engine so it would be louder but that's just the kind of idling sound i'd like my car to have so i'd just like to know what kind of exhaust on an r33 gts-t will give it that kind of idle?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84865-a-few-gts-t-questions/
Share on other sites

Guest tkch55

just an advise

if the car's a 95 model, don't expect 65k even if the odometer says so. it's almost impossible

even if it got genuine 65k, i'd probably expect to pay more than 15k

90% of the r33s of that vintage have already done more than 100k. but if the car is serviced and maintained well (tuned well if it's modified), it won't be a problem.

for a 10 year-old car, there's definitely the normal wear and tear as well as the consumables that'll need to be replaced. just depends on how many things the last owner's replaced.

and for r33 gtst exhaust note, i find they all sound pretty much simillar, the difference is just whether it's louder or quieter depending on the construction of the resonator and the material used

if you search, in the forced induction performance there's a thread about the different exhaust note b4 and after change of exhaust on an r34 gtt, it's even got sound files that you can download.

and in the turorial/diy section, in one of the stickied thread, it'll tell you what to look for if you're buying a skyline

cheers

what ever you do just don't believe what the odometer says

the condition of the car is far more important than the km on the odometer as most skyline has been tempered with before they come to australia

that's why you see a lot of 89 model gtr with only 80000K on it!!!!

Don't believe the odometer reading at all? The car's interior/exterior will often tell you how many kms it has done. Most dealer cars show around 65-70K. I bought my car around 2.5 months back and when I went to dealer cars they were priced like $27K upwards and were not in very clean condition.

Finally, I found one of a private dealer which had 85K on the odo and mate, the car had been driven with care. I could tell by looking at the interior and exterior. It drove well and did not sound like it had been thrashed at all. It's a 96 model stock car. I took it to a performace shop straight away and the machanic test drove it and said mate "this is not a lemon, it has done genuine 85K".

So far it's running beautifully, touch-wood.

As you know it's a 6 cylinder so even 90-100K on the odo is not too much, if it's kept with care.

Good Luck!!

Edited by harryg
Don't believe the odometer reading at all? The car's interior/exterior will often tell you how many kms it has done. Most dealer cars show around 65-70K. I bought my car around 2.5 months back and when I went to dealer cars they were priced like $27K upwards and were not in very clean condition.

Finally, I found one of a private dealer which had 85K on the odo and mate, the car had been driven with care. I could tell by looking at the interior and exterior. It drove well and did not sound like it had been thrashed at all. It's a 96 model stock car. I took it to a performace shop straight away and the machanic test drove it and said mate "this is not a lemon, it has done genuine 85K".

So far it's running beautifully, touch-wood.

As you know it's a 6 cylinder so even 90-100K on the odo is not too much, if it's kept with care.

Good Luck!!

95-96 GTS-t with 65k on the clock for $10-$15k? dont think so :D

but yeah, glad you asked, coz im also interested...what kind of mileage are these lines getting? i doubt they'll be like a ford doing 1,000,000 million k's (taxis) then being sold, and still going!

but what kind of k's have people seen out of R33 GTS-T's?

the 1 i'm buying has like 122,000 on it...which i believe to be genuine, and although high compared to others on the market, at least its safer to assume this 1 is legit. and thats still only 12,000 a year, which isnt too bad!

the 1's with 50k are so un-believable that i wouldnt buy 1 for that reason anyway.

cuddly. there is an R33 on carsales...claims that it was a lady owner, and its stock etc...and i remember it being way cheaper than any of the others...i think like $11-12k. ill find the link for u and post it up

I would go for the 96 or later model, simply for the facelift they got in the series 2. You will appreciate it more later. Plus the standard airbag(s) and more common ABS is a good point.

The 95 has the airbag and ABS on some as well but the front end was looking tired by this time. The series 2 headlights are significantly better imo...

can anyone identify this headlight as series 1 or 2?

light.jpg

i think the grille bit on the left gave it away.

is someone able to list mods, parts and prices to get the fuel economy as efficient as possible... and how many L/100k or k's per tank i should approximately be expecting...

Edited by ryMan

HI All,

I too am in the market for an R33, and although alot of vehicles have dodgy k's on the clock. It is also very possible to get one with minimal k's. My mates brother lived in Japan for 4 years, he had a car and only did 25000 k's over that period. He reckons everyone has cars over there but most people dont travel far at all just to or from work etc. THey are not travelling hours in cars everyday like we do. Obviously this is not the case for all but i do think thats its definately possible to get one with genuine low k's if you look hard enough and be patient. My theory is that most dodgy importers buy the high k ones cheap then wind them back and flog them off at an inflated price. Like alot of poeple have said "you get what you pay for".

Possible but quite unlikely - as everyone said - check the condition of the car.. if you find - worn gear stick, worn stearing wheel, paint peeling in engine bay, worn seats than there is a good chance that the kms are wrong..

Personally I got a 98 R33 - and it had 69,000 on the clock.. I tend to believe this a hell of alot more than the 4 x 1996/97 ones with exactly 60,000 or 64,000kms which is not realistic when you look at what the engine bay looks like..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
×
×
  • Create New...