Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have seen it before on cars that were not inspected properly and it happened once on Freo docks.

We got a panel shop to un-pick the origional rail and a new one was bought off Graham at www.japanparts.com as using a second hand one is a lot of work.

It wasnt that bad just time consuming,

I have a similiar ding in the chassis rail. I would say mines a little worse.

I was quoted $300 to get it fixed.

Look in the yellow pages for chassis repair.

<clicky>

Be sure to ring many ppls and find some one that 'likes' the jap imports. I came across a lot of negative feedback.

Comments like, they should all be written off, they are dangerous tin cans etc. If you hear anything like that don't bite, simply hang up. :)

Edited by Cubes

buy the rail section from nissan direct i think there about $200 from memory unspot it and weld the new one on.....no big deal...i have done heaps of them.....secondly....WTF is a "rocker panel" Underneath vehicles there is 2 sill panels,floor pan and chassis rails....thats all to my knowledge :)

I would have that repaired in the near future.

That's an important part of the chassis, it would be a concern when it comes to a roadworthy check too.

As mentioned before It would take a while to fix that, carefully seperating the rail from the spot welds and welding another rail in it's place.

It's definitely worth fixing if you intend to keep it, plus it's a GTR!

The rails having a little ding in them is nothing to worry about.

I had mine checked and was told the chassis is a mono-chassis therefor its only cosmetic. Cutting holes in your rear parcel shelf would affect the chassis integrity more so. :)

I think asked the bloke about Motor reg, the chassis specialist said they don't really know what they are talking about as there is no way a ding in a chassis rail will affect the chassis integrity in a MONO-Chassis vehicle.

But at the end of the day Motor reg will not pass the car with a dinged chassis rail. :D

Edited by Cubes

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
×
×
  • Create New...