Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 months later...

i had screws holding the square surround at the bottom, so i found that the only way to get the square surround off was to take out the cluster (gauges, aircon, radio) via the two screws at the top, and two at the bottom.

post-25286-1144144458.jpg

post-25286-1144144442.jpg

post-25286-1144144458.jpgpost-25286-1144144442.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

finally did mine... The wire descriptions Alex has put up in the first post are the same in My S2 fours S, so it saved me a lot of time!

On the rear speakers, 1) the speaker covers don't seem to come off 2) there doesn't appear to be any screws on the whole door panel (as mentioned earlier in this post). Ideas anyone??

Ian

tRUkbOY - there is no standard amplifier

Ian - To do the speakers, you need to remove the door skins. From memory, the only screws holding the rear skin on are under the top part of the hand holder part.

Start from the bottom of the skin and unclip it from the metal door. Finger strength will be more than enough. Move along until all the clips are undone, then lift it UP off the frame. Be sure to unplug the window switch and away you go.

The rear speakers are screwed into the spacers they use, so you will be able to basically directly replace the speakers.

The front speakers are moulded into the plastic spacer. I used two 16mm spacers glued/screwed together as spacers for my speakers.

280220060028sy.jpg

The paper is just there to give a better seal between the two layers of MDF. The heads of the screws holding both plates together are in between all the screws for the speaker and the heads are sunk into the wood.

i got all my speakers in using the stock holders

Yep me too, a little tight, but they fit, i also had to trim a little out of the back of the spacers aswell, to fit the larger magnets in.

Firstly, my speakers the magnets easily didnt fit in the stock areas, i had to cut the back out of both the front and rear spacers.

2nd, due to the fronts being moulded into the plastic, after cutting out the stock speaker with a dremel, i found my speakers were just a little over sized (I could get 2 of the four screws in, not all 4.)

I tried so hard to use the stock holders, but they just wouldnt hold. Also, the front plastic seemed pretty brittle, but hey.

So, i had to use massive spacers to fit my speakers in without hitting the door. The stock spacers are ~36mm front and 32mm rear.

I used to fit car stereo's for a living, and personally i think wood or MDF is a better sound producing material than plastic anyway.

As Alex can probably confirm, it's quite easy to make MDF spacers, they dont have to look spectacular, as it's all hidden.

Yes, the rear antenna has a power wire.

Its the yellow/black stripped wire that is taped to the antenna wire.

Attach this to the power wire.

Mine has no wire attached to the antenna wire

The only yellow/black wire I can see is very thick and wanders off the direction of the steering wheel.

The best choice I have left is to trace the wire back from the amplifier (that's the antenna signal amplifier).

The question is where is the antenna signal amplifier?

:D Cheers :nyaanyaa:

280420063sr.jpg

You are quite lucky that i have a big hole in my dash.

Here is a photo of the power antenna wire. As i said, the wire for it is taped to the antenna wire (which in my case bends downwards). The two wires are then covered in some foam stuff and go up and to the left...or the right, i cant really tell.

That black/yellow wire is what you attach to the antenna.

If that wire is not attached (like mine), you will get terrible reception (in dips in the road/under bridges etc, reception will cut out. When you do attach it, it really REALLY makes listening to the radio a lot better.

I am just lazy to fix it for now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...