Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...
I just installed a cd/dvd/tv unit as well and I am wanting to hook up a reversing camera. Does anyone know which wire I need to attach the unit to to switch to the camera when I hit reverse?

Cheers

i powered my cam from the reverse lights in the rear door as i mounted mine just under the handle.

i powered my cam from the reverse lights in the rear door as i mounted mine just under the handle.

cool cheers, I was thinking I might put it there. I can use the reverse light wire at the rear to power the camera. However what about the trigger wire from the head unit? Where abouts is the reverse light wire in the dash? Is it under the centre console? Which color? (I haven't had a look yet, so it may be obvious to me when I take it out next. I just thought someone may be able to save me the trouble)

Thanks again

:P

  • 2 months later...

Can i get some kind of confirmation on the stereo wiring for the S2? Or if anyone knows of a adaptor kit?

I ask as i am lookign at a 2 din hole with two blank connectors, and i know i have 6 speakers (2 pillar tweeters).

Thanks in advance!

just a question for everyone in here who has taken there dash apart a few times, does anyone else have spastic cup holders? what did you do to fix them? mine sort of work but they hang to one side and look funy.

Can i get some kind of confirmation on the stereo wiring for the S2? Or if anyone knows of a adaptor kit?

I ask as i am lookign at a 2 din hole with two blank connectors, and i know i have 6 speakers (2 pillar tweeters).

Thanks in advance!

You will only have 4 pairs of speaker wires, the A pillar speakers are "splits" with the front door speakers.

Has anyone put a double din head unit into a C34? Just wondering if there are any issues with it.

I've done it . Absolutely no probs, just follow the DIY. Get a plug to suit from JB, cut and solder.

Edited by 66yostagea
Thanks to STAGE-A for the wiring

12V ------- Brown with white stripe

Ignition -------- light blue with yellow stripe

Lights -------- Red with blue stripe

Earth -------- Just use the stereo metal brackets

and heres the speaker connection wires (stagea s1 at least)

left front ---- blue (+) black with white stripe (-)

right front ---- brown (+) black with red stripe (-)

left rear ----- mint green (+) black with yellow stripe (-)

right rear ---- orange (+) black with pink stripe (-)

On my S2, i found the RL & RR polarity was reversed to the above stated. and i also had two spare wires :)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

installed a new HU on the weekend

bought the Aerpro antenna adaptor, and found i got good reception even without combining both the antenna's

spliced into the black/yellow wire, and it seems radio reception is fine, haven't tested extensively yet

ran the ipod cable into the centre console, and a bluetooth mic into the exmpty switch next to the rear demister

lots of fun to work with. . . not!

  • 3 months later...
Quick question I need clarification on...

Will an S1 Xanavi unit be a direct swap into an S2 with the Factory CD/cas unit?

I believe it will. But why would you want the Xanavi unit anyhow?

just to let everyone know, there is probably an adaptor from aerpro that will plug into the stock harness

i dont know what the part number is but my r32 took the same part as a gq patrol which is about the same age so i would suspect that an adaptor is available to prevent having to cut and solder and also save time

Interesting...so Does the S2 car that has xanavi use the same looms/wires/sockets or whatever for air-conditioning... as one that didn't come stock with the xanavi unit?

No it does not.

One would require something like this: http://page5.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/e93993162

Ahh bugger. I'll be needing to buy one of them. Could you tell me the name of it so i know what to search for when it comes time.. please. haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...