Jump to content
SAU Community

How To: Stagea Headunit/stereo Removal

AlexCim

By AlexCim,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

lilcrash Veteran

lilcrash

Posted
Posted

ok now ive just read through this whole thread and im still lost, ive got a factory tape deck/stacker setup, ive got the plug with the 4 wires that someone said was for satnav plugged into my headunit, so ive got 3 plugs in the head unit and one empty socket, i also have a round socket 5 or 7 pin i think, with nothing plugged in to it. there was also a frequency expander in there that the plug broke off when i was poking around. and there is an extra plug in there going no where. can anyone shed some light on this??

  • Replies 232
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

AlexCim
AlexCim

Thanks to STAGE-A for the wiring 12V ------- Brown with white stripe Ignition -------- light blue with yellow stripe Lights -------- Red with blue stripe Earth -------- Just use the stereo metal b

AlexCim
AlexCim

www.whitepages.com.au search -> call -> ask

spudtatoe
spudtatoe

We need updated photos... although I managed to swap the radio (even though i'm pretty sure I blew a fuse so it doesn't work lol) it would still be nice to have photos for others wanting to know.

Posted Images

GoldZilla Grand Master

GoldZilla

Posted
Posted
ok now ive just read through this whole thread and im still lost, ive got a factory tape deck/stacker setup, ive got the plug with the 4 wires that someone said was for satnav plugged into my headunit, so ive got 3 plugs in the head unit and one empty socket, i also have a round socket 5 or 7 pin i think, with nothing plugged in to it. there was also a frequency expander in there that the plug broke off when i was poking around. and there is an extra plug in there going no where. can anyone shed some light on this??

Take some photos and post them up, it will make things easier to identify and get help! :P

SABBAi Grand Master

SABBAi

Posted
Posted

The round plug is an 8 pin Din plug, that connects the Xanavi to the HU. Supplies the audio from Xanavi, Combo power on trigger, Aux on trigger and the Aux request wire.

The Left hand lower plug is the constant power, ignition on, and the LH/RH speaker wire. I can't remember whether it's front or rear. The right hand plug with 4 wires is the LH/RH speaker wires. Again, I'm not sure whether it's front or rear. The top left plug is the plug that goes off to the stacker. Do you have a patch lead between the main chassis loom and the bottom left plug? You may find that you do and it'll have 2 wires a yellow and red. The is the constant and ignition wire for the stacker.

lilcrash Veteran

lilcrash

Posted
Posted

yer that would all make sense, now i just need to work out why my climate control light on one end has gone out. there is also 2 diffrent plugs in behind my headunit that are just sitting there on the loom goin no where, one looks like it might be for the ok meter type guages that replace the clock but thats just a guess. does anyone know if the stacker will work with newer clarion head units? i just dont want to take it out and have nothing in the whole.

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
910trx Proficient

910trx

Posted
Posted

i'm in the midst of installing my dvd/tv double din stereo

reception is rather poor although i hooked up the amp wire to the black with yellow

well actually i spliced it into the loom and left the plug connected.

the old FM converter was spliced into the nearby constant acc power for the ciggy lighter, so after reading THE WHOLE THEAD and not just the first 4 pages i'm going to separate the loom and try running 12v acc to the black with yellow.

the unit i have has digital tv and i have put the arial into the roof above the hoodlining - but i can only get abc 1 2 3 and 24 and with a rather weak signal. i'm a little reluctant to mount it on the outside of the car as the cable is not very long and therefore i cant put it near the back wing like i had hoped.

where has everyone else hooked their arials for DVB???

i'll post an image if the unit in the day light tomorrow - but while i have it out i'll finally wire the boost guage i have up to power as its been 3 months with no guage at night lol!

wires as stated in first post were same for series 2 and never double checked them, just spliced them into a new loon and plugged it in (put the old one in later if i wish)

thanks heaps for this DIY!

  • 5 months later...
4door31 Explorer

4door31

Posted
Posted

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but i just ripped out my head unit to reroute the ipod cable, and moved the cable and now its not working. tested the connections with a multi meter, and i have Constant but cant get 12v+ to the stereo? Any help would be great.

BoostedBarge Rising Star

BoostedBarge

Posted
Posted

You mean you have no 12V at the supply to the stereo? Have you checked the fuse in the fuse box? Also check the inline fuse in the wiring behind the stereo. You might have shorted something and blown the fuse.

4door31 Explorer

4door31

Posted
Posted

You mean you have no 12V at the supply to the stereo? Have you checked the fuse in the fuse box? Also check the inline fuse in the wiring behind the stereo. You might have shorted something and blown the fuse.

I have replaced the fuse in the fusebox as that was blown, where abouts is the inline fuse? How far in behind the stereo?

Stooge007 Rising Star

Stooge007

Posted
Posted

I have replaced the fuse in the fusebox as that was blown, where abouts is the inline fuse? How far in behind the stereo?

i think he's talking about in line of the power wire coming from your hu

it may or may not have a fuse there also

or perhaps there's a fuse directly in the hu?

4door31 Explorer

4door31

Posted
Posted (edited)

So is there any other fuse or anything i could have tripped other than the audio fuse in the engine bay? Becuase i get 12V+ at the fuse , i also get 12v constant from the brown plug i just cant get acc to turn on.

Edited by 4door31

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ARB26
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By ARB26 · Posted

      So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • MBS206
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • GTSBoy
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • GTSBoy
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...