Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok now ive just read through this whole thread and im still lost, ive got a factory tape deck/stacker setup, ive got the plug with the 4 wires that someone said was for satnav plugged into my headunit, so ive got 3 plugs in the head unit and one empty socket, i also have a round socket 5 or 7 pin i think, with nothing plugged in to it. there was also a frequency expander in there that the plug broke off when i was poking around. and there is an extra plug in there going no where. can anyone shed some light on this??

ok now ive just read through this whole thread and im still lost, ive got a factory tape deck/stacker setup, ive got the plug with the 4 wires that someone said was for satnav plugged into my headunit, so ive got 3 plugs in the head unit and one empty socket, i also have a round socket 5 or 7 pin i think, with nothing plugged in to it. there was also a frequency expander in there that the plug broke off when i was poking around. and there is an extra plug in there going no where. can anyone shed some light on this??

Take some photos and post them up, it will make things easier to identify and get help! :P

The round plug is an 8 pin Din plug, that connects the Xanavi to the HU. Supplies the audio from Xanavi, Combo power on trigger, Aux on trigger and the Aux request wire.

The Left hand lower plug is the constant power, ignition on, and the LH/RH speaker wire. I can't remember whether it's front or rear. The right hand plug with 4 wires is the LH/RH speaker wires. Again, I'm not sure whether it's front or rear. The top left plug is the plug that goes off to the stacker. Do you have a patch lead between the main chassis loom and the bottom left plug? You may find that you do and it'll have 2 wires a yellow and red. The is the constant and ignition wire for the stacker.

yer that would all make sense, now i just need to work out why my climate control light on one end has gone out. there is also 2 diffrent plugs in behind my headunit that are just sitting there on the loom goin no where, one looks like it might be for the ok meter type guages that replace the clock but thats just a guess. does anyone know if the stacker will work with newer clarion head units? i just dont want to take it out and have nothing in the whole.

  • 3 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

i'm in the midst of installing my dvd/tv double din stereo

reception is rather poor although i hooked up the amp wire to the black with yellow

well actually i spliced it into the loom and left the plug connected.

the old FM converter was spliced into the nearby constant acc power for the ciggy lighter, so after reading THE WHOLE THEAD and not just the first 4 pages i'm going to separate the loom and try running 12v acc to the black with yellow.

the unit i have has digital tv and i have put the arial into the roof above the hoodlining - but i can only get abc 1 2 3 and 24 and with a rather weak signal. i'm a little reluctant to mount it on the outside of the car as the cable is not very long and therefore i cant put it near the back wing like i had hoped.

where has everyone else hooked their arials for DVB???

i'll post an image if the unit in the day light tomorrow - but while i have it out i'll finally wire the boost guage i have up to power as its been 3 months with no guage at night lol!

wires as stated in first post were same for series 2 and never double checked them, just spliced them into a new loon and plugged it in (put the old one in later if i wish)

thanks heaps for this DIY!

  • 5 months later...

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but i just ripped out my head unit to reroute the ipod cable, and moved the cable and now its not working. tested the connections with a multi meter, and i have Constant but cant get 12v+ to the stereo? Any help would be great.

You mean you have no 12V at the supply to the stereo? Have you checked the fuse in the fuse box? Also check the inline fuse in the wiring behind the stereo. You might have shorted something and blown the fuse.

You mean you have no 12V at the supply to the stereo? Have you checked the fuse in the fuse box? Also check the inline fuse in the wiring behind the stereo. You might have shorted something and blown the fuse.

I have replaced the fuse in the fusebox as that was blown, where abouts is the inline fuse? How far in behind the stereo?

I have replaced the fuse in the fusebox as that was blown, where abouts is the inline fuse? How far in behind the stereo?

i think he's talking about in line of the power wire coming from your hu

it may or may not have a fuse there also

or perhaps there's a fuse directly in the hu?

So is there any other fuse or anything i could have tripped other than the audio fuse in the engine bay? Becuase i get 12V+ at the fuse , i also get 12v constant from the brown plug i just cant get acc to turn on.

Edited by 4door31

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
    • The odometer does go up when driving.  Does this tell it is an issue with the speedometer itself?    Where can I look for replacement cluster? Or speedo? I can likely do the repair.. Will ER34 cluster work on HR34? Or do I need a HR34 20GT S2 specifically lol   
    • Mine's a bit bigger at 70x150mm roughly. The spots are flat, just can feel the edges if I dig my nail into it. I did fix some other other ones by both using my finger to sand that small spot (I'm a bit wary of doing this and creating hot spots and a bigger mess) and I also did sand over it flat and others, but this also worried me a bit because if I create an overall low spot on the panel on paint that is good.  Correct me if I'm wrong but as long as it's flat even if I can feel the edges, I can put filler because it will all be level once I sand it? I can see myself going in a circle after sanding guidecoat with 320 grit if for example the panel is flat with my hand but because I sanded the guidecoat I could have created a low spot again somewhere. Unless where I'm going wrong is what I mentioned previously where I didn't go low enough on the grits. It's 1 step forward and 2 step backwards here haha. I'll probably need to experiment with it more. Last time I go back to bare metal lol.
×
×
  • Create New...