Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by Hicks

Cool, whats the safc 2 like?

Any differences??

Quite a bit more tuning resolution, 12 vs 8 points and increments of 200rpm vs 500rpm.

It has one more wire for the knock sensor input. Handy for tuning without the dyno.

It took me just under 2hrs to install and get running, these things are too easy:D

I might have to copy someones low and high throttle mixture settings to have a better play.

Hicks, can you tell me what you have for the low and high ranges, also the percentage throttle for low and high.

I have followed the jap manual's reccomendations about a setting to try, it's a little better perhaps (hard to tell driving around the suburbs) but I don't think it's all that flash.

I'll leave the settings on '0' for the drags tommorow and have a muck around while I'm there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8559-s-afc-tuning/#findComment-126861
Share on other sites

rev210,

Congrats on the purchase, it will be interesting to hear what the tuners have to say about the SAFCII, I'd be pretty sure that it will be the same to tune but the extra points will provide a much better curve. Let us know when you have it tuned and the results.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8559-s-afc-tuning/#findComment-127154
Share on other sites

Hmmm..... These guys that you are recommending..... Can they do all types of work??? I ask becuase I am looking into buying the Apexi SAFC, AVC-R and a second hand GTR cooler and I want to find a place that has a good rep/record to fit all three into my car...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8559-s-afc-tuning/#findComment-127166
Share on other sites

Gts-Vspec.

If people can give some of their settings for the S-AFC on the RB25det with stock turbo , I'll get an idea of the curve to use and I'll do a bit of tuning at the drags tonight.

The knock sensor input is great, I used it to look at timing last night its very helpful(and sensitive) and I'd say with the data log (all 30sec of it) you could do a half decent job of road tuning.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8559-s-afc-tuning/#findComment-127168
Share on other sites

MrGTST,

In general all of the tuners mentioned will tune just about anything, they all have there favourites that they are especially good at.

rev210,

Hicks should be there tonight, so hopefully you can get some rough guidelines from him, but seeing as all cars act a little different even on the factory computer I'm not sure how useful it will be. Hope to see you there tonight and have a look at the new purchase.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8559-s-afc-tuning/#findComment-127178
Share on other sites

yeah its called the S-afc II on the controller and box, but its the third release model. The first being the one with 'dials' and no blue screen. The second the blue screen, this one blue screen with no buttons just a playstation anolgue style joystick and jog dial.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8559-s-afc-tuning/#findComment-127179
Share on other sites

Gtst-vspec,

See you there, it looks like it might be a little cooler tonight, have to see how much humidity we get also. Your running a haltech right? I used to play with those back in the F7B days, so easy to tune.

The factory map is much the same for everyone if they have the same computer, the differences in car mods have an impact but, the same shape of correction curve is used to extract more power.

I don't want to re-invent the wheel I guess and I strongly suspect that those with a good S-afc tune all have a similar graph. We don't know for sure because no one has ever posted a log of settings for others to compare. On something common and simple like a S-afc having a little archive would be great to help people come at the concept as well as help us driveway and road tuners save time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8559-s-afc-tuning/#findComment-127188
Share on other sites

rev210,

I actually run the new Wolf Ver 4. Seems to be good, and very soon I'll have anti-lag and rotational idle to boot, firmware updates.

I thought that the AFM would have a large impact on the tuning of the SAFC's, and seeing as each AFM has it's own curve, unfotunately they aren't actually linear, then the difference in settings between cars could be large.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8559-s-afc-tuning/#findComment-127198
Share on other sites

The weird thing is the Jap manual has 3 different setting reccomendations for Hi and Low maps, that they provide a graph for to show the effect that each has on the A/F ratio across the rpm. The same reccomendations are made for the RB25det Neo, which has its own page, although the throttle Hi/Lo % is different. This is different between the series I the series II and the Neo R34 RB25DET, but the map stays the same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8559-s-afc-tuning/#findComment-127218
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...