Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No - when I spoke to Mark at Hills motorsport I definately said R33 quite a few times and he seemed convinced he has chipped quite a few..

Maybe they have found a way to chip it.. I guess its only a matter of time before everyone else finds out...

Edited by benl1981
  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I don't think it's impossible to re-chip an R33 - there is no reason why it wouldn't work..

Thing is - you need the appropriate software + hardware.. you don't want to screw something and lean your car out while on a dyno.

i've looked into it a bit more - if you want to pull out your ecu - desolder it and put a zif slot in it'd help with the ease.

It isn't neccessarily hard.. i think it's more that you need to know what you are doing..

as long as you know what all the high and low throttle maps.. k value and about 20 other things mean.. than go for it..

i'd be interested to see how well you can tune back the A/F ratio.. one main advantage is that it's legal.. there is no way for you to get defected.. vs a power fc unfortunately isn't..

http://ashspecz.com/ashspec/zem/zem.htm is a commercial chioce..

tuning with a cable in your rom chip clot would be the best way - especially on a dyno.. you could run trace maps and work out what's doing what.. and easily adjust..

anyways.. that's my thoughts..

R33 maps are in the ecu itself, not on a seperate EEPROM, so you need to install a daughter-board. It's a fair bit of f**king about and no where near as flexible as a PowerFC which arent THAT expensive and nearly everyone knows how to use.

From memory Oosh, you were trying to get EEPROM writers and such to mod your own some while ago. Guessing you gave up? :P

Once you have a daughter board in there, and you goto a tuner, or DIY, you could then either do swap & test, like Toshi/Yoshi(?), or if you have an emulator like Dr Drift and such, dyno it, tune it, then burn.

If you can mod it yourself if you have some basic electronical experience or already have a modded R33 ECU seems cost effective.

I've got a modded R33 and loom, but an R32 head :) UGH!

Yeah, well my car hasn't been modified much further so there hasn't been the impetus, and when i looked at it properly you really need an emulator to do the job right.

IMHO it's just not a feasible process to:

Dyno -> Change Tune -> Erase Chip* -> Burn Chip --\
^                                                 |
|                                                 |
\------------ Repeat til done <-------------------/

*You really need a special eraser for this, you can leave em in the sun but it's unreliable, or you can keep using freshies at ~$10 a pop.

Which is why, from what i can gather, Sam originally had a generic tune and made the odd tweak here and there.

Once you factor in the equipment costs for an individual it's more economical to go the PowerFC route.

Edit: And you'll STILL need Dyno time, and someone to tune it (unless you're confident with it yourself) who will be unfamiliar with the process, which despite it's benefits is why it'll always be a bit of specialty to certain tuners.

Edited by Oosh

I think you'll find thats incorrect ...

Sure you can do the "burn & test" method, like Toshi.

That "special eraser" stuff is BS. An EEPROM writer costs about $35 to make from a Jaycar kit. EEPROM's are about $5, and are electronically eraseable, unlike EPROM's which need exposure to UV. You would only use EPROM's over EEPROM's if you were suffering some form of mental illness. Apparently it is also possible to use flash based media, however I am unsure how exactly. Possibly some interface between the EEPROM connectors.

When it comes to why the R33 E(E)PROM(?) can only be written once, I have no idea.

Best way is to use an emulator, which allows on-the-fly tuning, which for all intents and purposes is not going to be really any different to the PowerFC tuning. DrDrift and various others are using these emulators AFAIK.

Mark at Hills uses an emulator to tune it on the Dyno for you, then once it is OK he will burn it down to a chip. In the case of a 33 or 34 that requires a daughterboard on the ECU but he can sort that out for you.

Give him a call for prices, tell him Duncan for Raceworx sent you and he will look after you.

The standard ECU has some advantages over aftermarket ones, like keeping full knock sensor and consult port functionality. We use a retuned standard computer in the race car and it works well. And of course you get to keep factory tuning for cold start, air con, closed loop etc etc etc

Hey Ben re-retuning the standard computer is no different to retuning any other ECU. If you change something (eg turbos) you might or might not need to retune depending how different the new setup is.

Generally tuners charge for the time they spend on the dyno with your car, although some shops are arrogant enough to charge big flat fees for their alleged magical knowledge even if all they do is start with a old tune that a previous customer paid for :D

Hey Ben re-retuning the standard computer is no different to retuning any other ECU. If you change something (eg turbos) you might or might not need to retune depending how different the new setup is. 

Generally tuners charge for the time they spend on the dyno with your car, although some shops are arrogant enough to charge big flat fees for their alleged magical knowledge even if all they do is start with a old tune that a previous customer paid for :D

Yes, this is a less than wonderful trend in tuning. Witness the accounts of people getting $500 tunes which involve half an hour of tuning. Sure there should be some compensation for the fact the tuner/workshop is responsible for not killing your car... but even still.

Toshi - have you been able to reprogram the R33 ecu?

I've been told:

R33 uses a plcc style processor, and not an eprom. And there are also no header pins to install an aftermarket rom board

How are you able to change what is stored on the chip?

in order to tune R33 on dyno, board is needed, which approximately costs $350-$400 only board.

Tuner makes ECU map on dyno themselves and this data is transfered onto PLCC chip then fitted onto the customers ECU

Other wise use R32 ECU ( need change all map.not only fuel and ignition).

R33 chip is selling at http://www.grid.co.jp/en/prod/prod93.htm.

This is a one time chip.

when remapping ignition timing DIY, make E F colum same as D colum ignition timing. ( also remove speed and boost limitter)

This means about same AFC.

And adjust base ignition timing by crank angle sensor about 2-3 degrees.

There is no need for a fuel map change.

Because when fitting dump pipe and hi flow cat , cat back, air pod , boost 0.8-0.9 bar A/F changes to about 11. (depends on parts performance)

A/F 11 is not rich. HKS kansai drag racer GTR A/F11 for safe and power.

I think rechip is cheaper way ecu tune for std turbo R33 GTS-T.(my map is totally different std map).

If change turbo in the future I recomend power fc for R33.

I think R32 do not need power fc.

If some one having pomping or fuel rich problem please send me PM or [email protected].

I be able to chack problem by softwear then I will fix it. ( NSW only)

How much is it for a rechip..

What software do you use to do the modifications?

i'll probably shoot you an email at some stage for some further details. My car currently has A/F of about 10.5 when under full throttle.. I was under the impression that this was a bit rich.

Rechipping is R32 $250 R33 $350

Im using rom editor and grid data scan.(with map trace)

A/F meter is INNOVATR widband.

A/F 10.5 is only a bit rich. therefore is not a problem.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=81438&hl=

His car was fixed by my rechipped ecu.

Edited by Toshi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...