Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My theory is this:

The new turbo has a better bearing cartridge and I know for a fact that it spins way more when you turn the car off, so you would assume that it will spin faster & longer when the clutch is pressed in.

So, with a higher turbo rpm with clutch in combined with the fact that the GT30 comp housing is flowing much more air I am getting compressor surge...

Its either this, or the guys who made my intake piping blocked the BOV return pipe near the mouth of the turbo

What do you guys think?

its not a lot to do with RPM, and little RB25 turbo would spin faster to make 12 psi than a GT30... if my brain is thinking logically

check your BOV, like make sure its working, not just hooked up.

Worst case, just purchase GTR ones.

They work perfectly

Yea, it will vent small amount of pressure like 5psi for example. Its when you get higher presure that it start to flutter.

The GT30 certainly does flow the 12psi much easier... But at the end of the day 12psi measured at the intake plenum is 12psi no matter what turbo you use.

do you get flutter only at 12psi and a normal stock bov sound at say 5psi?

I have another question.

is 12 psi 12 psi?

I mean, 12 psi produced by the stock turbo = the same amount of air as 12 psi from the GT30?

My brain won't bend to work it out today....

well if it can vent at 5 psi but not at the higher 12, then 2 things can be the issue.

1.) the bov can't flow enough.

2.) the return line is too small and can't flow enough to the inlet.

either of those will cause enough of a blockage to cause a fluttering.

Lordsnipe - you're right..

just thought about it now.. when I got an RB25 turbo on my RB20, on the same boost (11psi) it was making a decent amount more power than with stock turbo.

I just can't think of the theory behind it.

if it's 12 psi in the motor, then how does that effect flow wether it's from gt30 or T25...

brain broken..

Sounds like you need a bigger BOV or one that vents better or both.

Does this only happen at high rpm (high flow rates). ie. does it surge if you shift at 4000rpm? Cause that would be a similar flow rate to your stock turbo at 5000rpm (estimate)

As for the does a bigger turbo flow more than a stock turbo with 12psi in the plenum ??

Well it's 12psi in the plenum but the engine makes more power which means it has more flow. (ie. eats more volume of air per second) This is because the turbo is more efficient and uses less exhaust restriciton to make the intake pressure so it lets more air out of the engine for more air to go in.

Got it?

They would flow the similar in the midrange though where the stock turbo is still sort of efficient.

bah 12psi is too low on a gt30r not even on the compressor map........

boost it to 14 then tell us how it goes.

also the stock bov is good for stock turbos but big tubos need some flow for the BPV.

another option would be to run dual bov's to vent boost but at that point the fab work and cost would make it cheaper to buy a highflow bov/bpv

Arr,

That makes sence. I have always wondered how that worked, thanks for clearing it up!

As for my BOV, it seems to have loosened up a little. Now it will vent fine for low boost & low rpm but as soon as you get a little more boost (~10psi) & rpm she goes PSSSHHH flutter flutter flutter :)

As for the does a bigger turbo flow more than a stock turbo with 12psi in the plenum ??

Well it's 12psi in the plenum but the engine makes more power which means it has more flow. (ie. eats more volume of air per second)  This is because the turbo is more efficient and uses less exhaust restriciton to make the intake pressure so it lets more air out of the engine for more air to go in. 

Got it?

Does anybody have some pics of a Plumb back installed on a RB25DET???

An aftermarket one I mean...

just try an aftermarket plumback one... if it doesn't flutter at high revs, then you're done.

if it does, then the bov return line would be the restriction.

Edited by GunMetalR33

i had to change my stocky over after gt30 installation , it was leaking at high boost. put a blitz supersound on and it works fine , i have no compressor surge problems. gunmetal ive got pics now to of oil lines and of the turbo actually on my car, if you want i can send you photos, just pm me your email and i will send photos.

Its OK now mate, I have it fitted and sorted. Now I just have the injectors left to do and a tune. At what PSI did your BOV leak? I thought the stock BOV would be fine. Did you get any compressor surge with the old BOV?

Is your Blitz BOV a plumb back and if so do you have any pics of it mounted?

i had to change my stocky over after gt30 installation , it was leaking at high boost. put a blitz supersound on and it works fine , i have no compressor surge problems. gunmetal ive got pics now to of oil lines and of the turbo actually on my car, if you want i can send you photos, just pm me your email and i will send photos.

Edited by GunMetalR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...