Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes i accepted this above in the posts somewhere, i think definatley could do with maybe a 40 or 50mm application

I think this can be put to the back of your minds for now.

YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO MECHANICALLY KEEP IT SHUT?

this is my problem. it shouldnt be even opening yet i have 1.3-1.7bar spring.

i wish i could see 1.3 bar. At minimum you should be able to run spring rate.

I cant even do that.

if I could do that somehow and wasnt able to control my boost then i would agree...

but until then i cant do the easy way out, arrg its to big maate. lol :)

I'll cross that bridge when i come to it.

I have no reason to beleive at all this application wasnt working in the past for the previous owner.

I know of a few gtrs using the 60mm GT and GTII wastegate on t04r, t04z and t51r, and it can control fine.

although i do agree in principil a smaller one would be better suited.

thanks guys

mick

  • Replies 69
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ah well, just a bump up for anyone intrested.

will be dropping the exhaust, if no improvement, i will buy a new wastegate.

will let you guys know how it goes in case your intrested.

thanks

Michael

yeah have checked all gaskets, doesnt seem to be any leaks.

you need to feed boost presure into the top of the gate!!!

if its got funny clip things just swap what sides they go on...

need to do this to see. :P

  • 3 weeks later...

damn

i cant beleive you posted that mate - your a legend.

except i hadnt checked back in this thread since i last posted.

and i have since bought a Brand Spanking new HKS 60mm GT wastegate.

And dam, still have the same problem! arrrgg. i wish i saw your offer.

lol

well for the ones liking pics.

here is new wastegate fitted also with 1.3-1.7 spring.

Having same issues.

Cracks open at approx 0.9bar and screams away.

so bought a spanker wastegate - what else could be issue? some sort of backpressure problem? defo droping the exhaust tomorow night.

(remember its a big freeflowing effort no cat) (andwastegate is venting to atmo)

thanks

Michael

post-1794-1127902279.jpg

post-1794-1127902402.jpg

really?

thats just what i was after, someone thats had same exact symptoms?

same thing, would just keep cracking open at a lower boost level?

and you never heard any leaks etc?

where exactly was the hole in the bottom of the plenum?

I am going to tripple check everything tonight - gunna pull off every intercooler pipe and refit.

mick

Just a quickie.

i know all the way i have convinced myself this cant be the turbo.

could it be? Any experts want to share an opinion?

i mean its not the turbos fault the wastegate cracks open and lets off the excess over 0.9....

if it was the turbo, then it would struggle to make teh boost, but the wastegate would stay closed yeah????

thanks

michael

well it's possible if the turbine housing is having trouble flowing the exhaust gas it could force the wastegate valve to open, but it seems unlikely.

Man, I can't believe the new wastegate didn't fit the problem!! D'oh :P

yeah man

PWNED.

cost a fair bit of cash too.

spewing, car runs so smooth, has so much potential, just want more boost!!!

i just dont want to rip turbo off and get it rebuilt for the fun of it lol.

:P

Hey,

If the exhaust is making heaps of backpressure, the gate will open earlier than you'd like.

Remove the exhaust in sections (start at the back of the car, work forward to the turbo or

as close as you can get) testing each time. It _could_ be a simple blockage. Eliminate

the exhaust as a possibility before trying the following:

* Try leaving the top wg hose connected, and disconnecting the bottom hose. This will maximise

pressure keeping the gate closed. If boost is always higher than backpressure, in theory

the gate can't open, ever.

* Or you could try welding the screamer pipe shut with a disc - this is the same thing as removing

the wastegate completely. It might still crack open, but the gas can't go anywhere.

While doing either of these tests, remember that your wastegate isn't working - you need to

control boost with your right foot and be _very_ careful... overboost isn't fun for your motor :P

Regards,

Saliya

Ok well, i pulled the dump off and inspected the exch side of the turbo.

seemd all ok, all blades in tact looking good. no shaft play.

so thats looking ok.

went to remove front pipe, and i have rounded off a bolt. fark...

lol

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...