Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

have a couple minor problems i need advice with or where to start looking, ive searched but cant find anything on each question..

This is for a R32 GTR

1) Brakes - They are hell spongy like they have air in them but they have been bled apparently. We replaced the master cylinder with a new one and then bled it again and its still spongy. Could it be the brake booster or?

2) Ticking sound at rear - When the key is in the On position, or when the car is started/running i can hear a 'click' under the car and the lights flicker at the same time as the click. When the car is first started it happens more often about 5 seconds apart, when its running it doesnt really happen while driving or i cant hear it anyway.

* When i take the 4wd fuse out there will be no clicking what soever and the lights wont flicker either, so im assuming its to do with the attessa system or ABS.

* i got underneath and i cant really tell but it sounds like its either near the diff or fuel tank (surely fuel pump wouldnt make lights flicker etc?)

3) Aircon - The aircon/vents only point to the window now, they used to move around like normal when the mode was changed, but now they only stay in the demister position and you cant hear the motor trying to move them.

Any help is appreciated guys :O Cheers

Edited by confuzion
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86184-couple-r32-issues/
Share on other sites

1) Brakes - They are hell spongy like they have air in them but they have been bled apparently. We replaced the master cylinder with a new one and then bled it again and its still spongy. Could it be the brake booster or?

Mine was the same when i first imported it, machined brake disks and new fluid helped the problem a bit, and some hard stopping helped the problem a bit more, i suspect that rust from the disks that accumulated during shipping embedded into the pads. im still not happy with it tho, and i doubt i will be till i get around to getting some new DBA rotors and some good quality pads. if it was me i would try new fluid (if you havent already), then machine the disks (if they seem warped), then check all the calipers are working correctly, if thats all ok better pads with more bite might improve the feel. if everythings working properly they should stop well.

2) Ticking sound at rear - When the key is in the On position, or when the car is started/running i can hear a 'click' under the car and the lights flicker at the same time as the click. When the car is first started it happens more often about 5 seconds apart, when its running it doesnt really happen while driving or i cant hear it anyway.

I can also head a click/tick noise when i have it on the on pos every probably 5-10 seconds, i havent noticed it while the car is running tho, just when its on ON, but not running, i havent really listened either but im not concerned about it.

3) Aircon - The aircon/vents only point to the window now, they used to move around like normal when the mode was changed, but now they only stay in the demister position and you cant hear the motor trying to move them.

take to auto electrician/ buy new parts from a wrecker and fit them

they are just my suggestions i hope its of help

thanks dude, i have actually had the brakes serviced when it arrived as like yours there was rust on the discs, so they were all machined and bendix ultimates and metal kings where put on, plus now the master cylinder changed, so im thinking its either air which i doubt or booster at a guess..

cheers

89 shitter optional features... enjoy them :P

Hardly. These are quite common problems.

1. Check your brake lines. Make sure your using a quality DOT5.1 oil.

2. I did some investigating on this. Its a relay in the boot clicking on/off. Its for the 4WD or HICAS (I forget which -- I posted up some details you can search for if you really care).

3. Does the climate control display reflect the (supposed) change in position?

1. Very sure were using the 5.1DOT fluid i shall double check.

2. A friend suggested it sounded like a relay also. Is it anything to worry about/can it be fixed? Just looks kinda dodgy sitting there idling and my headlights flicker at the time of the click.

3. The climate control displays the change in position yes (eg floor or straight forward)

1. Very sure were using the 5.1DOT fluid i shall double check.

2. A friend suggested it sounded like a relay also. Is it anything to worry about/can it be fixed? Just looks kinda dodgy sitting there idling and my headlights flicker at the time of the click.

3. The climate control displays the change in position yes (eg floor or straight forward)

1. Well I would check your lines. Its not uncommon for them to perish over time. Also, how tightly secured is the master cylinder?

2. I find the interior lights dim momentarily: can't say I've noticed the headlight dimming too. Either way, if its just the relay its normal. I've often wondered if a better battery or one of those earthing kits would help.

3. No idea then. Have you tried the error codes on the climate control?

3. I have and it flashed the code 31 32 34 35 36 or whatever it is, which states that a 'connecter' is unplugged. I have pulled the whole freaken dash apart and traced everything i can and i cant find any connecter or wire unplugged. It will probably have to be a sparky's job :P

Thanks for replying dude ill check the lines etc B)

... which states that a 'connecter' is unplugged. I have pulled the whole freaken dash apart and traced everything i can and i cant find any connecter or wire unplugged.

Thanks for replying dude ill check the lines etc  B)

There is a connector in the engine bay, basically immediately behind the coil ignitor module. It connects to a sensor that clamps around one of the heater pipes back there.
There is a connector in the engine bay, basically immediately behind the coil ignitor module. It connects to a sensor that clamps around one of the heater pipes back there.

This one? (attached). Shes plugged in :) Ive checked all fuses in the engine bay and the inside fuses too :|

post-2366-1125718807.jpg

yeah thats what i mean, in diagnostic mode the unit flashes something like '31 32 34 35 36' which in the R32 service manual and also what a search brings up means a connecter seems to be unplugged..

grrr summer is coming up :)

:D

brakes. have you bled the abs as well?

there is a special sequence to bleed, can't remember it off hand, follow gtr workshop manual. if that fails get a pressure bleed done on system, this should force out any air hiding away.

ticking noise at rear. could be hicas or attessa. check Attessa resovoir in right hand rear guard (remove small interior trim), should be done with ignition on, and level should be between marks. normally when you start car, the attessa pump should prime the system so that there is adequate pressure that can be applied to clutch packs for 4wd system when it is required.

check power steering fluid levels, same fluid resovior used for front and rear steering racks -for R32s.

maybe fuel pump is on way out?? is fuel pressure ok?

ok brakes !

with the car off and me pumping the brakes, the first pump is squishy then every other pump is hard like it should be

with the car ON and idling with me pumping every pump i hear a PSSH and obviously its squishy. It sounds like its from inside or in/outside the firewall so im assuming the booster is leaking?

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, I still don't know why the idle speed control can't catch the falling RPMs. In the Consult logs I see the AAC duty cycle rising, but suddenly it goes lean and the engine stalls. Anyways, the relevance here is the DW 550cc injectors are probably the same. So if OP has similar issues I would be tempted to finger those injectors as problematic for whatever reason vs the ECU failing for some reason.
    • Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
    • Oof. One of my mates has an R34 GT-R that he initially was a "I want to go twins for response and convenience" on his stock 2.6 with Kelford 272 cams, but his friends are pests and were always in his ear about their place being in the bin.   Eventually one of the 2860-5s decided to add it's own input and force his hand, so he conceded and went for a Pulsar 6262G ("G35 900") with T4 0.85 hotside.    Here's an overlay of the results, same cams, same stock bottom end, same boost, same fuel, just from a pretty tidy 2860-5 install to a Pulsar turbo on a 6boost maniifold on BP98.   Worth mentioning here, it may seem like a dead horse thing but the dyno plot doesn't tell the story of how much better it is to drive - transient response has completely changed the car, he used to have flat foot shifting to stop it having to wind up again on gear changes even at >7000rpm... now it builds boost faster than that even short shifting.   It's 100% transformed the car before you even consider how much better it holds on: Pulsar and Garrett aren't the same, but from our experience if you're just looking for a better drive and the ability to make the same or more power I think the divided G30 770 would probably be the smallest I'd go to.
×
×
  • Create New...