Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 129
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Oh no, I actually did the stereo first. :(  :)  :)

:) cheers :)

;) Im not sure I want to believe that SK!! :)

Now I know how Luke felt when Darth had a 'father to son' chat with him in SkyCity....... hahahahaha :lol:

Sweet - how many Amps & Subs did you fill up the wagon space with??!!

Brendan

:)  Im not sure I want to believe that SK!!  :)

Now I know how Luke felt when Darth had a 'father to son' chat with him in SkyCity....... hahahahaha :lol:

Sweet - how many Amps & Subs did you fill up the wagon space with??!!

Brendan

Hahaha Brendan :lol: , I wasn't pulling your leg. I used a Nakamichi head unit with a 120 watt per channnel 4 channel SoundStream amp and 4 X MB Quart coaxials (one in each door). No room for sub's though, I need the rear space for race car stuff. Load carrying is the main reason why I got a Stagea in the first place. That, and its ability to tow the race car.

Sound is good, no doof doof in my Stagea. :D

:) cheers :)

Hahaha Brendan :lol: , I wasn't pulling your leg.  I used a Nakamichi head unit with a 120 watt per channnel 4 channel SoundStream amp and 4 X MB Quart coaxials (one in each door).  No room for sub's though, I need the rear space for race car stuff.  Load carrying is the main reason why I got a Stagea in the first place.  That, and its ability to tow the race car.

Sound is good, no doof doof in my Stagea. :D 

:) cheers  :)

No drum'n'bass then?... Oh well, each to their own hey!! Thats all I really listen too- not into the lyrics and electric (air!) guitars, Kiss style face paint and the like :)

Yeah, the stag boot space is for using, not clutering up with sub-boxes and the like. Mines for the increasing family (read prams and dog), and towing the Fireblade to Mallala (just got to get a towbar and a trailer first!). Hopefully I can install an amp under one of the seats and just use good speakers thru the doors, maybe a small sub into the rear floor..

Good stuff. Anyways, I reckon your suggestion re: fuel lines is apt, so Im going to get that part all organised (fuel pump, nismo fpr, beefy lines etc + the z32afm I already have), and set up some dyno time with GWW to recalibrate the SAFC. No big injectors for me then.

Then save for the never-ending further mods. Brakes first, then turbo. Then suspension. Or as the funds allow. <_<

Cheers, Brendan

Hahaha Brendan :lol: , I wasn't pulling your leg.  I used a Nakamichi head unit with a 120 watt per channnel 4 channel SoundStream amp and 4 X MB Quart coaxials (one in each door).  No room for sub's though, I need the rear space for race car stuff.  Load carrying is the main reason why I got a Stagea in the first place.  That, and its ability to tow the race car.

hey mcchook

what size co-axial's did you use in each door, as l'm not sure what size splits to get for the front, and what size co-ax's to get for the rear to add a bit of bass.

Also where did u mount your amp, didn't happen to mount it under the passenger seat did you?? As l'm hoping ot mount my 4 chnl amp there

My God, this threads fantastic! :)

:D  :lol:  :lol:

Yeah, SK is just so imformative; Im really glad he's been able to contribute so much to these various threads. Makes fantastic reading, and Im sure a lot of members have been able to gleen a lot of information from SK. I certainly have, so a big Cheers to you mate.

Sweet... Brendan :)

Thanks SK. :)

Now, in regards to the CGC High Flow, what is the MAX they are good for atw's? Is it possible to get 250-300atw's? :)

Cheers,

Chris

GCG emailed me and were reckoning 220kw no worries, so I guess its a matter of fueling and cooling to get that bit more, or perhaps a bigger turbo (really, I have no idea!! - thats why Ive been asking some questions :D )

Cheers,

Brendan

I put the amp in the space where the CD changer was, LHS rear 1/4 panel. The ATTESSA reservoir is in the RHS one.

The MB Quart are the DKE116's , HUUUGE improvement over the 15W Clarion twin cones that were there standard. The MB's are 165mm diagonal between the mounting holes and 180 mm total diagonal. Bit tricky to fit as the MB's are perfectly round and the standard speakers are a rounded off square.

:D cheers :)

Edited by Sydneykid
Thanks SK. :)

Now, in regards to the CGC High Flow, what is the MAX they are good for atw's? Is it possible to get 250-300atw's? :D

Cheers,

Chris

The 250 rwkw is not a problem. The R34GTT makes 265 rwkw with a GCG ball bearing high flow (11.9 at 120mph), best of all it has more power EVERYWHERE than when it was standard. Ian has the same on his R33GTST and he is up to ~270 rwkw. The big winner is the average power, it is very strong from 3,500 rpm to 7,500 rpm.

I don't think anyone will get to 300 rwkw though, that's a pretty big ask.

:) cheers :)

OK, so how would  go about getting 250kw at all 4's using this turbo? :unsure:

It's not the tubo that is going to limit you, it is the ECU. I haven't been able to get an RB25DET much over 225 rwkw with the standard computer and using piggy backs. The compromises just get too much to tune around.

Other items are easy;

Tomei 256 Poncams

Split dump/engine pipe combo

3.25" exhaust with a real high flow cat

Adj exhaust camshaft pulley

(Maybe one of Bass Junky's adjusters for the inlet camshaft as well, but I haven't tested mine yet)

Pipercros panel filter in the standard airbox

S15 JDM manual injectors (444 cc's)

R32/33 GTR fuel pump

R33/34 GTR intercooler

Z32 AFM

Unfortunately that's the problem with wanting more than ~210 4wkw, everything needs upgrading. So the cost of the extra 50 4wkw is very high. That's why my target is ~200 4wkw, it is a very economical to achieve power level.

:D cheers :)

:O

It's not the tubo that is going to limit you, it is the ECU.  I haven't been able to get an RB25DET much over 225 rwkw with the standard computer and using piggy backs.  The compromises just get too much to tune around.

Other items are easy;

Tomei 256 Poncams

Split dump/engine pipe combo

3.25" exhaust with a real high flow cat

Adj exhaust camshaft pulley

(Maybe one of Bass Junky's adjusters for the inlet camshaft as well, but I haven't tested mine yet)

Pipercros panel filter in the standard airbox

S15 JDM manual injectors (444 cc's)

R32/33 GTR fuel pump

R33/34 GTR intercooler

Z32 AFM

Unfortunately that's the problem with wanting more than ~210 4wkw, everything needs upgrading.  So the cost of the extra 50 4wkw is very high.  That's why my target is ~200 4wkw, it is a very economical to achieve power level.

:D cheers  :(

Thanks for the advice, SK.

Cheers to you.

Brendan

;)

  • 2 weeks later...
:unsure: Fantastic SK! Your a credit to yourself :(

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=87663

a thread from the forced induction area of this site.... under $1200 for a hks type turbo; and in fact the turbo bigdatto is talking about I ws seriously considering bidding for!

Glad to hear there is at least 1 satisfied ebay turbo buyer out there, who has a recommendation. I think that might almost 'prove' that there are better value for money options out there than a 2grand hiflow job (sorry, I just cant get over why its so expensive to alter a standard turbo, when you can buy new ones for less).

Just my 2c worth. I'll seriously consider using this ebayer for a turbo... at the end of the day you just have to trust the seller that they are selling you a good product.

Now, big questiuon to ask yourselves; is that 'trust' worth a saving of $800...? (ie $1200 for hks2535 or $2000 for hiflow option) <_<

Brendan

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=87663

a thread from the forced induction area of this site.... under $1200 for a hks type turbo; and in fact the turbo bigdatto is talking about I ws seriously considering bidding for!

Glad to hear there is at least 1 satisfied ebay turbo buyer out there, who has a recommendation. I think that might almost 'prove' that there are better value for money options out there than a 2grand hiflow job (sorry, I just cant get over why its so expensive to alter a standard turbo, when you can buy new ones for less).

Just my 2c worth. I'll seriously consider using this ebayer for a turbo... at the end of the day you just have to trust the seller that they are selling you a good product.

Now, big questiuon to ask yourselves; is that 'trust' worth a saving of $800...? (ie $1200 for hks2535 or $2000 for hiflow option) <_<

Brendan

Hi Brendan, you are not comparing apples with apples here. I can't speak about other high flows, but GCG use a brand new dual ball bearing core, new (larger diameter) shaft, new seals, new gaskets, new compressor, new turbine, machine the standard compressor and turbine covers to suite and them micro balance the whole rotating assembly. It's basically a new turbo, everything that is subject to wear is brand new. All the components are covered by Garrett new parts warranty.

It bolts back up exactly as it was when standard, everything fits, no mods, no extra parts, no missing bits, no days waiting for stuff to be made, just bolt it up up and drive away. That is simply not the case with an aftermarket turbo. You will most likely find yourself spending hundreds of dollars more buying and fabricating parts to get the off the shelf turbo to fit.

You can of course buy a turbo with a fitting kit for an RB25 (GTRS for example) but they cost ~$3,200 by the time they get here. That's a valid (total) cost comparison.

:wub: cheers :wub:

Edited by Sydneykid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...