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Stagea Turbo Upgrade


Tangles
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To tell you the truth, if you are keeping the car auto or if its auto, i wouldnt worry too much the turbo, will be hard to max it out anyway.

As long as the car is very streetable is all that matters.

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What does being auto have to do with it? I don't really understand how that would effect putting a more efficient turbo on an RB25DET (more air at lower PSI) if the gear box is up to it and you have the elecs to tune it then I see no reason why this wouldn't be a good option??? Other than the ball bearing option being better/longer lasting and possibly more power producing (less drag) hence more expensive, I see mostly positives here...

Luke

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Well, yes, my GCG makes the car a hell of a lot more fun to drive, but this ball bearing vs bush bearing thing only really comes into play when the turbos on the edge IMO.

I had every intention to max out my GCG at 230-240awkw, but its not easy with the auto shift logic getting the in the way.

I mean, it will be hard to TUNE (DFA/SITC) the car to max out the turbo, hence I beleive if you can save $1000 in just buying a bush instead of a ball, you will be up 1k on everyone.

Only a few days ago i realized how hard RB25's are to get power out of really. I mean, for 220-250awkw you need to spend around 10+k.... labour inclusive.

RB26+full exhaust+PFC = 250awkw/12.6 qtr mile. Plus you get the brakes, interior, body kit etc at the same time...so you dont really need to upgrade these (unlike an RS4)

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^^

Yeah for sure.

I see what youre saying, no doubt you're right; although with 2 drivers (ie wife and I) you could actually 'use' a Stagea RS4 and RS260. Maybe one day :dry:

Im my case atm tho it means 1k saved, with savings to be used for injectors and tune. That finishes my tuning modifications and would infact keep me under my '30k total package' mark I aim to stick to, with 2k left over still to spend on brakes, auto valve body upgrade, drivers seat, & hopefully have ~200+ 4wkw @1bar.

:(

Id like to know then how to 'maintain' a bush-bearing type turbo tho - ie do I let car cool down 2min after EACH drive, change oil every 2000kms etc? better check howthingswork.com. From what I gather you gotta make sure it has a strong clean feed of oil, the cooler the better. How can you assure that?

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Having read the other thread complete now, there is a good case to stay away from the cheaper item mentioned (posted by SK) and I think it makes pretty good sense, if something goes wrong and this type of turbo does not get a chance to cool down properly then you haven't saved a cent... I guess that is the risk you take though.

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  • 5 months later...
I met Aaron on Monday with Ghostrider who was getting a turbo hi-flowed.

hey Hugh, best that you dont actually mention prices, as Aaron has a set price list.

$890 for stage 1 highflow, or $940 for the largest possible.

see http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...131723&st=0

Aaron may have done a better price for Ghostrider, like he did for me, due to certain circumstances... ie, I supplied TWO turbos (one for his stock and one to be highflowed) so therefore Aaron did me a great price !!

I wont say here how much, but Im very happy with the money Ive spent for this particular product.

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Hope all goes well with the new turbo. :D

200awkw is making me very jealous :P

I'm also not far off the $30k mark on my stagea at the moment but an extra $1000 would give me very close to that magic 200awkw figure as well so I really cant complain. Upgrading the intercooler and brakes would take me over the $30k mark tho :D gives me plenty to look forward to...

And with reference to rb25's being expen$ive to get power out of...I actually think $30k for a 200awkw family wagon with the handling and features that the stagea has is still not too bad. Gotta be happy with that IMO. :)

Give those v8's a bit of a scare ;)

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Slide turbo is on, man Im happy. What a ripper of a turbo, really pulls hard. Definately a quality product without a doubt. I must surely have over 175awkw at the moment, at 12psi on the 'old tune'. Will easily see 200awkw I have no doubt. Now to save for a tune.

:P Cant drive it much, knee is too sore as its been a long 2 days doing the install, but my half hour drive impressed me so much, I like the characteristics of the package. Off boost it seems normal, and from 2500rpm it just pulls. Pulls hard, will be real strong at 1bar without a doubt. Very impressive.

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top stuff Brendan

cant waity to see the results after the tune...

Hey mate, yeah Ian after the tune without a doubt it'll have a lazy 200awkw at say 14.5psi. Aaron reckons more and I think he's right, however I'll get a nice safe tune, for economy I suppose. Dont want to stress any other components of the car.

I reckon at 17psi, if I wanted to go that far, she'd have 220awkw and the injectors would need am upgrade. Dont need that sort of power, 195-205awkw is fine for me :huh: Please note ppls that Im using a safc and sitc.

Without a doubt tho right now she's pulling pretty hard. My current guess of 175awkw at 12psi might be conservative I think. Need to get the AFR's checked tho, want to be safe about it all. Tune it after xmas when my work goes on 2weeks xmas holidays.

To All Stagea Owners:

The Sliding performance turbo is an awesome upgrade, I dont think it'd be quite as responsive down low as a GCG (bush compared to ball bearings), however for the price its a great package. We've got heavy cars, but mine is really moving and thats on the old tune. The turbo sounds wicked too. :P Im uber-impressed.

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Luke, both are high flow turbos so they would take the same ammount of time to fit, HOWEVER, the bush bearing core needs a change in the oil lines to one that is 6mm large to allow more oil to flow to lubricate the core. Ball bearing cores are fine with ALL the standard fittings/lines, hence this is why it is "easier" to get a BB core GCG, however, it does cost more...

My GCG is mega peaky, I make the best power at mmmm, redline. Cant wait to tune the DFA/SITC in a few weeks time once the MV autos shift kit that I bought goes in (yes, i bought it)

Will make a DIY thread on the installation of the MV auto kit.

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The dump pipe had one really long bolt stuck in where a really short bolt shoulda been, such a stupid thing when installed by the fitters. Fn idiots. This one bolt took over an hour to undo as it was near impossible to grab and turn it.

The water feed bolt took an hour and a bit, was real hard to get lined up. Hour for the auto cooler. Cleaned up a few things, changed most fluids etc. On first startup oil leaked, so had to redo the oil feed line, the surfaces-join was out due to a lump in the oil feed connector crimp. Needed to be adjusted.

Wasnt a fast pace; a backyard job so time taken wasnt really an issue. Was charged $250, paid $300 plus smokes for the mech and some cash for replacement oil I pinched from him...... lol, got a mix of 5w40 and 10w50 Penrite hahaha. etc

:O

Today had the seat rail extended by 35mm. Will get some brakets made up and get another 35mm leg room. Stag goes 'well'

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