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Hicas, Big Problem


tim83mm
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Ok try to get the HICAS diagnostics and i couldnt get the diag happening so im thinking that maybe my HICAS light isnt lighting up because my boss kit isnt allowing it to work.

You need a HICAS compatible boss kit to engage the steering angle sensor. If you don't the ECU will recognise after a time and send an error code (and HICAS light). Additionally, it may not be aligned straight, which could cause issues with steering at speeds >60-70kph. Without the steering angle sensor, of course, you are also unable to engage the HICAS diagnostics (as it can't tell you're turning the wheel).

Given you have an R33 shouldn't you have an airbag wheel anyway to remain legal?

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You need a HICAS compatible boss kit to engage the steering angle sensor. If you don't the ECU will recognise after a time and send an error code (and HICAS light). Additionally, it may not be aligned straight, which could cause issues with steering at speeds >60-70kph. Without the steering angle sensor, of course, you are also unable to engage the HICAS diagnostics (as it can't tell you're turning the wheel).

Given you have an R33 shouldn't you have an airbag wheel anyway to remain legal?

Series 1's dont have airbags

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I could never get the diag to work in mine, but the HICAS worked all the time except when I first put my boss kit on for my steering wheel.

I got the Works Bell one from Just Jap, and they have a couple of slots in them. Basically you have one slot for the plug to go through, and the other plug for the prong that turns the steering sensor. I had mine on the wrong way in some slots that looked like they were right. I turned the hub 90 degrees I think towards another set of slots that I thought was to tight the first time but turned out to be right.

So if you look at the back of your boss kit and it looks like it could go on a couple of different ways then try putting it on so that it goes over the prong nice and tight. Mine only had about 5 degrees of play at the most before it was engaging the prong but apparently that was enough. So its very sensitive

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I notice that my wheel is slighty turned right maybe it isnt on properly ill check it also blinker turns off quick if im turning right slightest left turn of wheel a d it switches off say like a round about where u go around left then right but the other way its perfect.

Why i sthis HICAS so bad alotta peolple i hear get a lock bar and dc it but then most say its because it aint worth getting fixed.

also my HICAS light never comes on at all only when i start car.

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i dunno if my hicas is stuffing up i never see light on only when i start the car and then it switches off

also my HICAS light never comes on at all only when i start car.

If it's coming on at all, that's a good sign - at least means the bulb hasn't been pulled. That it's not coming on at other times based on what you've described is surprising to me.

I notice that my wheel is slighty turned right maybe it isnt on properly ill check it also blinker turns off quick if im turning right slightest left turn of wheel a d it switches off say like a round about where u go around left then right but the other way its perfect.

Why is this HICAS so bad alotta peolple i hear get a lock bar and dc it but then most say its because it aint worth getting fixed.

Certainly sounds like something isn't right with your steering then. As previous posts have suggested, I'd be checking the boss and see if it is HICAS compatible. If you can't be bothered messing with all this - do as many others do and lock it.

For me, and many others, I'd rather my HICAS working - especially given having a HICAS lock-bar technically requires engineering to be legal. The HICAS system is fine on the street, and handy on the highway - it also helps keep the car straight in particular situations which can be counter-intuitive to how some people might expect. This can cause some unpredictable behavior in particular scenarios (on the track, drifting, etc), as the HICAS will essentially start 'fighting' with the driver about how to react.

Anyway, if you can't be bothered (many can't) - just lock it :)

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i had a very very similar problem in my r32 and it was the steering angle sensor... does the car back end track slightly left and then right when accelerating lightly in a straight line from 50 km/h to 90 km/h ?? if so id say thats your problem... steering andle sensor is telling the hicas ecu your turning...

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Hmmm yer i think it might actully ill give it a try on the way to work but i know the steering wheel must not be on str8 because if i put the wheel str8 my car goes right hold it slighty left to go str8 i dont think i have had any sort of front damage to the car i think more the boss kit i changed the wheel when i bought the car but didnt touch the boss kit.

The HICAS light only comes on if there is a issue is this correct.

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Ok woke up today noticed my rear passenger tire was flat so i pumped it up but checked to see what was letting it down found a screw in it nw ill go get a repair kit took the will off to fix it and 2 my suprise i have the rubber grip seperating from the inside of the tyre i reckin it would have blown off tomorrow on the M5 doing 110kmh probley = death.

The tire was only bought in december last year and has never been driven on flat while i have had it as far as i know it was brand new im not going to say where i got it from but i wont be going there again.

it was Continetil brand i think.

So maybe this was my lump lump lump i was getting and not the HICAS as i thought.

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  • 2 weeks later...

is it ok to just pull the fuse on the hicas?? or will this cause problems, ive heard that if you start drifting or doing a burnout , hicas can come one and you can end up all over the place, very dangerous....

if you pull the fuse , what happens to the back wheels, do they stay straight or have a ming of there own??

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Don't pull the fuse. I did this when my HICAS steering sensor was out of whack - and when I finally got that fixed, the HICAS rack had excessive play in it meaning I had to replace the HICAS rack - I assume because of the fuse was pulled, and it was free to move around on it's own.

It made the car very unpredictable in the rear, especially under heavy acceleration - and also made cornering much less predictable - I really wouldn't recommend it.

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oh ok, i better put it back then, seems solid round corners still, I took it out cause my bro said he was taking a corner, started drifting and the thing went crazy ( hicas) and he almost hit a electricity pole.

I guess the lockbar is the sensible approach..

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i don't know if you've had a serious look at your shock absorbers, a blown one can cause these symptoms, effectively one wheel(s) is just sitting on a spring and bouncing along with the road.

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