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http://www.transelite.net/hitty%20man/pages/PICT0072.htm

this corolla was a bit of a suprise 372hp or so

http://www.transelite.net/hitty%20man/pages/PICT0067.htm

and one of mine clean for a change

Edited by blk180

It made 238.4 rwkw b4 i addaded the high flow cat to it whichis around the 320rwhp it made 314.4 on sunday but the clutch is slipping burned it up pretty bad on wednesday night at wsid it gotta be replaced so no excuses that was the best I could do on the day

Cheers Peter

HI

At the moment its running an high flowed to4e but its not flowing enough so I have a new garrett GT3040r on order shouldnt be far of with the new clutch be hoping to get into the 11s

Cheers Peter

I missed out on a spot for the drag day was gonna try then but im aiming for about four weeks time for an attempt at the 11 second brecket fastest so far was an 12.22 but thats when i fried the clutch Matt seems to think I'll do it easy with the new clutch and turbo so here's hoping

Cheers Peter

Being a rotor enthuisist,, Iwas there mainly for the rotors,I was in the purple RX7 BRP 13B, If the thing had been tuned it would have been on the dyno and would have smashed that piece of crap 808 with the Bridge port.

Anyhow, I loved the above pictured R32, what a piece of work, animal. Certainly not a car amny rotors could take on.

VL2DY4, what a beast, love the Aero kit, way better than a Walky kit. Used to be a commie nut, but too much money needs to be spent to get any where near you car.

The dyno day was pretty damn good for a Sydney tuning house.




  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
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