Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Curious to know what some peoples oil temps have been reaching in regards to being on the track.

Im not so concerend about daily driving as thats not my worry.

I want to know if reaching 120degree oil temps is rather acceptable when driving around a track.

I know it comes down to the type of oil you use too.

I currently use Softec Plus 5w/30 in my RB25

Anyone know how to work out or FIND out different weighted oils and when their lubrication properties start to break down?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/86863-acceptable-oil-temperatures/
Share on other sites

Curious to know what some peoples oil temps have been reaching in regards to being on the track.

Im not so concerend about daily driving as thats not my worry.

I want to know if reaching 120degree oil temps is rather acceptable when driving around a track.

I know it comes down to the type of oil you use too.

I currently use Softec Plus 5w/30 in my RB25

Anyone know how to work out or FIND out different weighted oils and when their lubrication properties start to break down?

From what I understand the viscosity of the oil is in no way indicative of the propensity of the oil to break down on a molecular level at elevated temperatures. More important is the maintenance of a lubricating film - which does tie viscosity to temperature. Unfortunately finding out this sort of information usually requires the services of a tribologist.

Best advice is buy an oil cooler...

Edited by djr81
  • 2 weeks later...
Curious to know what some peoples oil temps have been reaching in regards to being on the track.

Im not so concerend about daily driving as thats not my worry.

I want to know if reaching 120degree oil temps is rather acceptable when driving around a track.

I know it comes down to the type of oil you use too.

I currently use Softec Plus 5w/30 in my RB25

Anyone know how to work out or FIND out different weighted oils and when their lubrication properties start to break down?

We use Castrol Formula R Sythetic 10W60 on the track, and I try for less than 115 degrees at all times when in clean air. Can get to 125 degrees when close following.

Time for an oil cooler?

:wub: cheers :wub:

  • 3 weeks later...

i use penrite syn5 5w-60.

i had it at wakefield and after 4 laps 125 was not uncommon.

i have since fitted a 25row cooler in the r/h brake duct{have to redo plumbing-relocate bov,s} and soon another in the other one.

crusing it sits dead on 85. on the old pac it gets up to 110. it takes about 5mins to come back down, at speed

.

i should also note that some oil thermostates dont really work.

this is for the remote oil filter/thermostate blocks ive used.

i had a m..........cone...s one and i had to remake the valve so it actually put more than 50% thru the cooler once warm.

the washer that was suplied as the valve with a 3mm clerance arond it was replaced with a modified 1" welsh plug that seals properly and shuts of the bypass once warm. it works like a charm now. but i wanted a neater one that i didnt have to use sandwich blocks for guages etc.

so a hks type r one was used.

the hks one needs to be modifeid as well, to achieve more than 50% bypass. its a bit more complicated but, all you need to do is remove the thermostat {27mm bolt thing}and shim up the valve about 9mm or so!!!

and trim the spring the same. it took a couple of goes to get the right balance of warm up time vs cooler flow. but this spec works really well.

from my brief time in the decina spas v8 supercar development series pits.

i noticed on the live datalog screen the water temp sat at 85ish and oil sat at 85ish as well. i asked one of the mechanics and he said for every 5 degrees above 85 they lost 10hp.

now i know why they use such big coolers. and the gibson gtr had two 25 row coolers in the brake ducts all cowled in properly.

i know im craping on abit but im determined to get my gtr oil temp as stable as the water. :lol:

I have a big arse oil cooler mounted in the passenger side brake duct, it is properly ducted in there, and the rear splash guard has been vented to allow the air to actually pass through the core. on the track water temp never exceeds 82 degrees, and oil never above 90 degrees. this is in a GTR with stock tuirbos etc, putting out 250kw atw.

ferni, i reckon if you are hitting 120 WITH an oil cooler something is not working properly mate. where is it mounted? how is it ducted? oil coolers don't work too well if you just hang them somewhere on the front of the car, they need some thought put into the air flow. this is where you'll get a good gain.

My cooler sits in the front passenger side, where the stock intercooler for R33 GTST's sits. 16row HKS cooler with the thermostate and all that. I have the black plastic vented bit from a gtst put in the wheel well so that air can flow through.

90 degrees on the track? thats nuts, don't know anyone who gets 90 degrees on the track.

hehe, you know 1 guy now... me :P

it's possible that the thermostat is providing a restriction? some ducting in there would definately help too. other than that the only difference i can think of is ambient temp. these temps i'm talking about ambient temp would not have been much over 20, maybe 22. tracks, OP GP an EC. it does seem to be backed up by the coolant temp, not moving past 82 (read off PFC).

Can someone give me an indication of what the range is on the oil gauge for the R33 gts-t.. mine sits about 1/2 way around town.. than drops on the freeway when it's got some decent air flow.. As summer is coming was going to be keeping an eye on it and was wondering as I don't have the R33 owners manual (along with probably everyone else)..

cheers

Links: R33 gtst's don't have a standard oil temp gauge?? are you talking about oil pressure?

Richard: Yeah i've been out on track on cold days and still had it hit 120. It was raining last track day for one session and i hit 110.

Normal driving to/from work etc.. i get around 75-80, summer maybe 80-90.

I can vouch that a good oil cooler can keep the temp down around the 80-90oC mark even on the track. I have a Greddy 13 row installed and my oil temp stays around the 85-87 mark. But I do have to say I'm sure this will change as the QLD summer heat kicks in.

I've got an oil temp gauge on the left hand side of my cluster - it also has an oil pressure gauge on the right..

is the one on the left actually water temp?..

The gauge on the left of yoru speedo is the water temp gauge - just has C and H right?

Richard: wierd, i know other guys i race with (snowman,scottsman) both hit upto 120 as well. Maybe its just you NSW drives drive to soft :D j/k

Richard: wierd, i know other guys i race with (snowman,scottsman) both hit upto 120 as well. Maybe its just you NSW drives drive to soft :D j/k

that is highly possible. lol. Though in my last car i used to hit 140 before deciding that a few cool down laps were in order. but this GTR i just can't make it get that hot, though i'm generally only reving it to 7000rpm atm.

thats interesting. my gtr has the cooler all properly ducted and the splashguard cut away heaps.(25 row serek -10)

85-90 around town

gets up to 100-110 quite easily when given a hard time.

maybe i should check my oil temp guage? its a nismo mechanical one. :)

The gauge on the left of yoru speedo is the water temp gauge - just has C and H right?

Richard: wierd, i know other guys i race with (snowman,scottsman) both hit upto 120 as well. Maybe its just you NSW drives drive to soft ;) j/k

last time i was out at Sandown it was 30+ deg ambient, 250rwkW, serck 19 row(?) oil cooler in the passenger side duct.

130 degrees oil baby

100 degrees water

:):):)

I don't have a powerFC so never knew my water temp but it never moved on the std gauge from a touch under the middle. Getting a powerFC now tho so will know in future.

I've seen my temp get higher than 120 before i had an oil cooler.

so i wonder what the difference is between your GTR richard and ours down here. reving to 7,000 won't make a huge difference, its how long you're on the throttle (i would assume) i usually short shift too around 7,500rpm.

maybe i am just special? in a timmy kind of way. The kit i have is the BIG trust one, from memory it's still only 19 row though? also, it apparently has a thermostat but it's possible that it was gutted before i got it and this may help the flow through the core? Next time i'm out i'll check the temp at the core with the laser heat gun thingie we use. maybe my oil temp gauge is just fuxored.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1680, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
×
×
  • Create New...