Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

don't get any car with a 7M-GE engine! i had an MA70 supra with the 7M-GE and blew 2 headgaskets...

Warren

Apologies for gettting a bit off topic, but how exactly was the headgasket fixed? I blew mine twice aswell, the first time it was done by a 'reputable toyota specialist' that still follows toyota recommendations and didnt use genuine parts.

Second time around i did it all myself and like i said, new bolts + washers torqued to a higher setting, genunine head gasket (redesigned), head surface faced for straightness. After that it never gave me any troubles. The 7M is a strong engine, and quite good for its era (okay, its a pos these days...). :rofl:

Apologies for gettting a bit off topic, but how exactly was the headgasket fixed? I blew mine twice aswell, the first time it was done by a 'reputable toyota specialist' that still follows toyota recommendations and didnt use genuine parts.

Second time around i did it all myself and like i said, new bolts + washers torqued to a higher setting, genunine head gasket (redesigned), head surface faced for straightness. After that it never gave me any troubles. The 7M is a strong engine, and quite good for its era (okay, its a pos these days...).  :huh:

problem was that the headbolts needed to be torqued higher than the factory specs..

i realised this the second time around when i did some searching on the net..

i had many other problems other thand a blown headgasket, thought.. not an engine i would recommend unlike the faithful rb series...

I was looking at a 92-95 Honda Civic Vti. They have a little eye candy, a reliable engine, don't use alot of petrol and seem easy to ensure..

If anyone has any comments on them I would greatly appreciate it.

The CRX is a great little N/A car. With a few simple modifications to extract power they are light and have a bit of go.

Something like a 180SX / S13 with a CA18DET has cheaper insurance than you may think (3rd Party). A friend of mine pays $400 a year for his.

Depending on what you want you could always build up a fast car, sacrificing babe-pulling looks. (Not that a Paseo will).

Perhaps a Datsun 1600 with CA18DET or SR20DET? Bluebird TR-X with SR20DET?

S13 or 180SX suspension can be grafted onto these cars. The 1600 has the advantage of IRS, whereas only the import-spec Bluebirds have this. And are you looking at full comprehension insurance or 3rd Party fire and theft?

It would also be a good idea to factor in that buying a previously modified car would save huge $$$ over buying and modifying a stock car yourself.

Some Examples:

http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/...rch_distance=25

http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/...rch_distance=25

http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/...rch_distance=25

http://antilag.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5087

http://antilag.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5554 (The first car)

http://antilag.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5451

http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/...rch_distance=25

Hope this helps!

Good Luck in your car choice.

the problem with some of these cars like the S13 is that most of the ones that get to an age have been flogged by p platers for years and the repair bills will cancel out the benifits. good if you can get one if good condition though.......

volvo 240. cheap, old people dont flog them and a good chance of survival in a crash.

n14 sss/q best first cars insurance wise there not to bad but id advise u to only look at aussi spec sss because jap spec sss owners think they got a rare sports car so they jack the prices up all in all there good lil cars powerfull best of all there made by nissan :P

I think i must win in the smallest first car award here :P

I drove a Rover Mini Cooper 1.3i 1993 model....with a 1.3 Litre 4 Cyl engine :)

Sorry mate i get that one! I bought a 91 Charade hatchback 4 months ago while im saving for my R33. It has a 996cc engine (not even a litre) and average petrol for the week is 10-11 bucks! Im even thinking of keeping it when i buy the skyline its so cheap to drive to work.

EDIT : And its a three cylinder lol

Edited by Lukeisbuyinga33

Alot of the aw-11s around are not in good nic. U have to get the supercharged one too or it pointless and as i said before, when the back end comes out there is not a damn thing u can do about it.

Most of the roofs leak and alot of them are thrashed. Not a good cheap car. Oh and have u seen where the filter is!!!! madness.

And ill second that the 7mgte, blows dick

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I see, honestly I’m not too fussed about the looks. The only reason to go plenum is to make the piping easier instead of the classic over the rad etc. 
    • Not easy to quantify wrt something like how many fractions of a second slower it would be over 0-100. But given that a 250-300rwkW car is able to do that launch sprint in 5-6 sec (and faster with appropriate tyres, and surface)..... giving up as much as a second would feel like torture. A ~450HP capable turbo is not going to make lots of boost in the 2000-3000 rpm range. So, whilst with some boost on hand it will be faster accelerating in that rev range than your engine currently is NA, it will not feel like a fast car until the boost is solidly in. You know what your car feels like right now when you open it up at 2000rpm. if you've ever been in an actual fast car, you will appreciate that the NARB25 is.... not exciting. Well, add some boost and it will be better. But shorten the intake runners and it might not be better at all. It might come out better, but it could end up feeling the same. For me, it's not the 0-X km/h sprints that matter. It is easy to fry the tyres with anything over 200 rwkW. You can't use all the power available in 1st and 2nd anyway, you have to modulate the throttle. What matters is how the car reacts when you're driving in traffic in 4th or 5th and have maybe 2000 rpm on board, and you want/need to add some speed quickly, and don't have time for the downshift. It won't make boost, it will be all NA (at the speeds we're talking about - remember how fast you're going at 2000 in 4th! and don't plan on breaking the limit by too much.) So giving away NA torque is not what I would consider practical for a street car. And retaining that NA torque builds boost faster which makes the car faster. The flashy plenum is not actually better, unless you're looking at a track car where you can keep it on the boil all the time.  
    • So how much difference does it make you think? Like 1 second in the 0-100?  I was have smaller turbo so hopefully that spools quick GTX2871.  currently it’s NA so you can imagine pretty slow, but I do want fast accusation a little as there’s not many places I’ll be driving where I go over 80 even near me. So 0-60 and 0-80 targets   
    • Short inlet runners cost quite a bit. Dulls off the off-boost torque, and delays boost onset, because arrival of boost is driven by gas flow is a product of the ability to flow air which is torque. This is the reason that the stock manifolds have longer runners. On a 3L, or bigger, you can usually accept the compromise of giving away some torque because the extra capacity gives you a little extra to waste. But on a smaller motor, there's not a lot there to start with. Example, I swapped RB20 out of my R32, 25NeoDET in its place. The "wall of torque" that I experienced afterwards made it all worthwhile. That's because I came from RB20 land where torque is not a thing. But I would not do anything, anything at all, to reduce the low/mid torque I have now, because I remember what it is like to not have it!
    • Really, low/midrange torque goes really bad?? I want decent acceleration, maybe I use a stock rb25det neo manifold?    
×
×
  • Create New...