Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here is my 4 door.....It is no Ceffy.......but it is a Nissan 4 door.....which is all that matters :whistling:

post-264-1151736981.jpg

post-264-1151737245.jpg

post-264-1151737298.jpg

It's nice dude... I think i may have seen you the other day... you weren't in Hawthorn by any chance were you?

Savage Bliss where'd u get the vertex kit if u dont mind me asking, looks very tough!!

No worries, a group called Panther Aftermarket in Sydney, http://www.pantheraftermarket.com/ speak to ric or jo.

And cheers dude.... :whistling:

  • 2 weeks later...
Here is my 4 door.....It is no Ceffy.......but it is a Nissan 4 door.....which is all that matters :(

post-264-1151736981.jpg

post-264-1151737245.jpg

post-264-1151737298.jpg

im not great with engine bays but are you arunning a big single?

***edit i just saw the other afm and filter tucked away.***

Edited by PIMP_DAT
im not great with engine bays but are you arunning a big single?

***edit i just saw the other afm and filter tucked away.***

Yea....it is running a pair of modified standard turbos.

coilovers arrived

aswell as s13 supermade roof spoiler (test fit is a treat!)

scored some jap license plates too today also :blink:

5 stud/pink non hicas cradle/drum handbrake retained install complete in the rear

front 5 stud almost finished... just need to get some s14 bottom strut bolts on next monday and then sending it to AVS suspension to change steering rack to non hicas (as i CBF!)

waiting on diana wing and mirrors... and need to get uras sides and rear bar from viva still

test fit flares looking good... just gonna be a few days of work to make them 2 piece into the rear doors and glass em

coilovers arrived

aswell as s13 supermade roof spoiler (test fit is a treat!)

scored some jap license plates too today also :blink:

5 stud/pink non hicas cradle/drum handbrake retained install complete in the rear

front 5 stud almost finished... just need to get some s14 bottom strut bolts on next monday and then sending it to AVS suspension to change steering rack to non hicas (as i CBF!)

waiting on diana wing and mirrors... and need to get uras sides and rear bar from viva still

test fit flares looking good... just gonna be a few days of work to make them 2 piece into the rear doors and glass em

sounds like more of a vip/show car than drift dude!

is it not to a similar aesthetical level as drift limo's?

or for that matter any other drift car that isnt boro? paint/widebody/wheels/bonnet/mirrors - your standard setup...

if it was show i wouldnt spend 2k on brand new sections - wouldve gotten airbags

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...