Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Your car looks tops all painted up mate, much better with the white bonnet. I reckon a set of low offset meshies and you'll be done.

Jap import spares have some awesome new wheels in stock, a new container just landed.

Yeah matsuri was awesome, shame it rained almost all day but i still had fun. first time in over 3 years so it took a while getting used to it again!!!

Thanks, yeah I've been looking through their meshies for sale lately, I think my favourites are the VS-XX and Stitches so far, but open to suggestions. Still have the S2 grille to put on, which I reckon would look good with silver meshies. I should really take one of my P1s off to check the size and offset...

26250IMG_0756.JPG

26242IMG_0737.JPG

Edited by Stang

I don't really get the whole meshies on cefiro thing.

Personally I think you should follow similar path to me, and get rims similar color to the body of the car.

Something 5 spoke.

Looks heaps tougher IMO.

http://www.skylinesa...-1307340538.jpg

Maybe some white TE37s or Drifteks.

Anyway on that note: Looks f**king awesome all painted up.

Why did they paint over the cornering lights on the front bar ??

Edited by Nic_A31

open to suggestions. Still have the S2 grille to put on, which I reckon would look good with silver meshies. I should really take one of my P1s off to check the size and offset...

the p1s look ok on your car (ok i personally hate p1s , but it's not my car) , i wouldn't stress too much , if your set on meshies though , go for a set with flat dish like the vs-xx (i.e the band is flat , not stepped like the other rims pictured) , make sure they're clean like the car (maybe even paint the center white for something different?, only if they aren't chrome , i have a lil thing for chome ) , and as much dish as it will handle (and maybe 18" if you can find them) front and rear and then , stance , stance makes a ceff as much as wheels do , look at kris's last pic ^^ for a reference :)

I don't really get the whole meshies on cefiro thing.

Personally I think you should follow similar path to me, and get rims similar color to the body of the car.

Something 5 spoke.

Looks heaps tougher IMO.

http://www.skylinesa...-1307340538.jpg

Maybe some white TE37s or Drifteks.

Anyway on that note: Looks f**king awesome all painted up.

Why did they paint over the cornering lights on the front bar ??

Thanks, yeah pretty happy with it looking a lot cleaner compared to when I first bought it. Not perfect, but it's an old car.

I do like 5 spokes, and had pondered Meisters as well...but I don't exactly have a lot of money to throw around. Not sure Drifteks would suit it. Not like it's a big rush to get everything at once anyways, tempting as it is.

Wasn't using the cornering lights and thought it would look less busy if they were painted the same as the rest of the bar.

please dont put drifteks on it

:laugh: Don't worry, I won't. ;)

the p1s look ok on your car (ok i personally hate p1s , but it's not my car) , i wouldn't stress too much , if your set on meshies though , go for a set with flat dish like the vs-xx (i.e the band is flat , not stepped like the other rims pictured) , make sure they're clean like the car (maybe even paint the center white for something different?, only if they aren't chrome , i have a lil thing for chome ) , and as much dish as it will handle (and maybe 18" if you can find them) front and rear and then , stance , stance makes a ceff as much as wheels do , look at kris's last pic ^^ for a reference :)

I quite like the P1s really. Since I've only just recently recovered enough to start driving the Ceffy again and doing some mods, I've been getting a bit excited thinking about various options for appearance and power. I do like meshies on quite a few Jap cars I see. Stepped rims can look good, or a bit odd, depending on the car of course.

At the moment it's about as low as I would want to go without beaching it on anything higher than a $2 coin, have already scraped on small speed bumps a couple of times. Kris' Cef does have an awesome stance, but cops here would probably shoot you in the face for that combo of rims and ride height. :laugh:

I'll keep looking around at pics of various wheels and stuff anyway. But may go for some more fasts rather than expensive rims. Making 139rwkw on standard boost and tune at the moment with FMIC and exhaust.

Edited by Stang
I don't really get the whole meshies on cefiro thing.

^^ THIS MEANS WAR FOOL! :spank:

At the moment it's about as low as I would want to go without beaching it on anything higher than a $2 coin, have already scraped on small speed bumps a couple of times. Kris' Cef does have an awesome stance, but cops here would probably shoot you in the face for that combo of rims and ride height.

actually i think SA police would be much nicer then VICpol :glare:

I'll keep looking around at pics of various wheels and stuff anyway. But may go for some more fasts rather than expensive rims. Making 139rwkw on standard boost and tune at the moment with FMIC and exhaust.

looks like she's in good hands by the way its progressed. did you end up getting some lean air flow ratio's during dyno run if so care to state xx:xx ratio?

I'm not sure, I was really worn out after being at the workshop for a while taking photos, so didn't ask too many questions. I mainly just wanted to make sure it was running ok after only being started once between June 2010 and May 2011.

Here's the readout from the dyno run, I'm not smart enough to know exactly what all the details mean...

6042009811_a529c8f68b_b.jpg

I don't really get the whole meshies on cefiro thing.

Personally I think you should follow similar path to me, and get rims similar color to the body of the car.

Something 5 spoke.

Looks heaps tougher IMO.

http://www.skylinesa...-1307340538.jpg

Maybe some white TE37s or Drifteks.

Anyway on that note: Looks f**king awesome all painted up.

Why did they paint over the cornering lights on the front bar ??

I do like TE37's or even low offset CR Kai's on Ceffy's but drift teks.... :yucky:

Im over seeing Ceffy's with urgays kits and drift teks.

Personally, meshies with dish & slammed.

i like the P1's on your car aswel they suit it, have a look at Works510's car aswel with p1's looks decent

if you want more stance pump the guards and put big f**k off tires on em to scare kids and shit

image038o.jpg

Edited by Kris..

It's been a while since you posted in here , any updates on the c33??

Couple more from Matsuri. Again, quality of the pics are sub-standard!

Just one I took on the weekend

Your car looks good mate , was that the rb25 one with the laurel dash?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...