Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd leave them as well.

No point further investing in the standard turbos.

I picked up an excellent pair of used R32 Nismo n1z for $1000. Maybe they're something that fit in the budget? And they're a hell of a lot better, and can take nice amounts of boost.

Labour? Thought i'd add to the drama, my mechanic charged $450, for 8 hours work.

Its a toughie. I'm sure for every few stories of nasty reversion there are probably hundreds and hunreds of ceramic wheels that have gone pop with no real problems.

Like you I am looking to upgrade them not for huge power, but for piece of mind. The 707160-5 Garrett seems to equate to the about the old HKS2530: to me that seems like a bit much for a stock car. The 707160-7 is basically the HKS GT-SS (give or take a mm here and there) and might be the business for people like us. Unfortunately it seems Garrett AU doesn't have much interest in selling the -7 -- from what I have been told; have to check with a few other retailers -- so it might have to be an import jobbie (probably from the US).

Edit: I wouldn't touch R32 N1s. Too laggy.

Lucien see if you can buy the 707160-7 from eBay

;) j/k

I guess I just have to run the gauntlet then. When I say I have no money for the car, I really mean it :) Just have to watch the boost. I wonder if my restrictor is still in. Iirc the gauge makes it up to 7, so it probably isn't.

Are R32 N1's laggy because they're not bb or is it inherent to their design? $1000 doesn't seem *too* bad but when you look at new 707160-5's.....? :)

Guest DIRTgarage
I'm sorry things got messy guys.

Its quite ok Mark....hey to prove a point how bout you bring it to the shop when you want it done....take two days off and actually see how long it takes to properly do the job...drive in drive out....with no bodgy broken bolts and no oil and water leaks. Heck ill even charge you the "Jerry rock bottom" rate....then you can post up if its possible to do the job in one day (8hrs)

Edited by DIRTgarage
Lucien see if you can buy the 707160-7 from eBay

;) j/k

I guess I just have to run the gauntlet then. When I say I have no money for the car, I really mean it :) Just have to watch the boost. I wonder if my restrictor is still in. Iirc the gauge makes it up to 7, so it probably isn't.

Are R32 N1's laggy because they're not bb or is it inherent to their design? $1000 doesn't seem *too* bad but when you look at new 707160-5's.....? :)

Well I think you'll find the standard turbos will last fine if you dont boost them, most people just can't help themselves.

Also, r32s N1s aren't necessarily laggy, I am very happy with how early mine make full boost i was pleasantly surprised.

They are just a bit old tech these days like 2530s. The newer Ball Bearing turbos might be a little better like 34 n1s or gtss but they cost a heap more

Its quite ok Mark....hey to prove a point how bout you bring it to the shop when you want it done....take two days off and actually see how long it takes to properly do the job...drive in drive out....with no bodgy broken bolts and no oil and water leaks. Heck ill even charge you the "Jerry rock bottom" rate....then you can post up if its possible to do the job in one day (8hrs)

Paul I would LOVE to take you up on your offer. Sadly, I'm moving to the Blue Mountains in October so won't be able to bring the car out (but I'm closer to WSID and EC, yay). That said, I could only afford the Beer Baron 2beers/hr rate ;)

Now that you mention broken bolts and leaks a-go-go, maybe I'd best leave it to the professionals! Best not to make things worse!

Well I think you'll find the standard turbos will last fine if you dont boost them, most people just can't help themselves.

Also, r32s N1s aren't necessarily laggy, I am very happy with how early mine make full boost i was pleasantly surprised. 

They are just a bit old tech these days like 2530s.  The newer Ball Bearing turbos might be a little better like 34 n1s or gtss but they cost a heap more

Well one persons laggy is another persons acceptable ;) Is this on the race car? 2530s are BB AFAIK

Its quite ok Mark....hey to prove a point how bout you bring it to the shop when you want it done....take two days off and actually see how long it takes to properly do the job...drive in drive out....with no bodgy broken bolts and no oil and water leaks. Heck ill even charge you the "Jerry rock bottom" rate....then you can post up if its possible to do the job in one day (8hrs)

Out of interest Paul, how long does it take you to R&R a GTR engine?

That said, I could only afford the Beer Baron 2beers/hr rate ;)

no-one can refuse my rates. of course as we near (and surpass) the 40 beer mark things slow down a bit, hence the 40 hours quote. But from then on in you can't feel any pain when skinning knuckles (which does happen a lot after 40 beers)... I think it's the only real choice for a discerning GTR owner.

Guest DIRTgarage
no-one can refuse my rates. of course as we near (and surpass) the 40 beer mark things slow down a bit, hence the 40 hours quote. But from then on in you can't feel any pain when skinning knuckles (which does happen a lot after 40 beers)... I think it's the only real choice for a discerning GTR owner.

youre hired!

. Heck ill even charge you the "Jerry rock bottom" rate....then you can post up if its possible to do the job in one day (8hrs)

Did you read this post Paul ? What part don't you understand when you are refering to "Jerry rock bottom rate " ?

"As for been possible in 8 hours or not Just a couple of things Paul .

First i dont have a workshop these days so i dont do work for anyone but still do all my own work at home . The other thing is i didnt comment on how much you charge , i only commented on the 16 hours you said it takes you to R+R the turbos and i said , someone with experience and the right tools should do it in 8 hours max .

On your hourly rate of $ 60 its a bargain , i wouldnt do it for that if i still had a workshop , $ 80 is more like the mark .

So yea i thought 16 hours is a bit over the top when you can R+R the engine for that time "

I won't argue with you any more .

All i can say is i can do it in less that 8 hours and most of other people that i talk to can do it as well , not my problem if it takes you twice as long !

IOWNU was charged for 8 hours and $450 as well ! But that was in Melbourne they are probably quicker down there .

" Labour? Thought i'd add to the drama, my mechanic charged $450, for 8 hours work "

"

Edited by wrxhoon

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
×
×
  • Create New...