Jump to content
SAU Community

Indicators Blinking real fast!


Recommended Posts

Well i had to pull my front 400r bumper off to fit my new cooler and in the process 2 of the bulbs in the indicators on the bumper broke, so i replaced em with new bulbs. We had to remove the fan for the AC also cause it was in the way of the cooler. Now my indicators blink real fast like there is a bulb not working, but they all work fine. Could it be caused by the plug for the AC fan being left off cause it was removed and its detecting this as a fault!

Here a pic of the front bar and cooler for those that havent seen it yet!

Oh and i got 183kw@wheels at 0.9 bar boost after the s-afc was retuned with the new cooler

attachment.php?s=&postid=126459

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8753-indicators-blinking-real-fast/
Share on other sites

Sure you replaced them with the correct wattage bulbs. I think the rapid blinking is caused by the system detecting the wrong voltage drop, which will vary according the the wattage of the globe. I can't see how the A/C fan would affect the indicator voltages. Otherwise you'd get different blink rates when the fan was on and when it was off.

i am preety sure i replaced em with the correct bulbs. How many different wattages do they come inm they r the 1'c with the 3 lipped end. Does the left and right indicators run off the same circuit so if 1 of the left bulbs r not working the blinker will still bink fast even when u indicate right?

heres my dyno graph 2!!

:)

attachment.php?s=&postid=127544

The increase in blinker speed is caused by a bad/faulty/short circuit

Same thing happens if you forget to connect your driving lights back up when you take the front bar off.

Sounds like your bulbs are incorrect

Originally posted by INASNT

no not yet, but i changed my headlight fluid and it didnt help either!!! :D

yeah? well give it a go dude...

It's probably the blinker fluids..and don't try and use the headlight fluid for the blinks, it will stuff things up...

Good luck with it :D

I did the same thing and they blinked too fast, either get the correct wattage bulb or place a resistor from Dick-Smith in series with the bulb, this will give it the correct volt drop and they should blink normal.

See'ya:burnout:

when i was working with cars and puting them back together and doing panel beating this was common... mainly cause one of the lights (as they run in series) isnt working.

when one stops working or blows then it puts the series out and starts to flash faster but generally only on the side which the bulb is affected.

Inark,

Normaly that is the case, that one of the lights has blown, but if you put in the wrong wattage globe then that has the same effect. Need to increase the resistance of the line back to what the original system was by adding a resistor.

See'ya:burnout:

Originally posted by INASNT

can any 1 give me the correct wattage for em. And remember its the 1'c on the front bumper. Thanks

Here is !! :P:D

Copied straight from my Skyline manual.

Head Lamp 12v 55w

Fog Lamp 12v 35w

Side Lights 12v 5w

License Plate 12v 5w

System/Rear Lights 12v 21/5w ???

Reverse Lights

Sedan 12v 18w

Coupe 12v 21w

Indicator Front 12v 21w

Rear 12v 5w

Cornering Lamp 12v 21w

So front bar indicators should be 21 watties.

J

Originally posted by Jay95R33

Here is !!  :P  :D

Copied straight from my Skyline manual.

Head Lamp              12v  55w

Fog Lamp                 12v 35w

Side Lights               12v 5w

License Plate            12v 5w

System/Rear Lights  12v 21/5w    ???

Reverse Lights

        Sedan        12v 18w

        Coupe        12v 21w

Indicator Front    12v 21w

              Rear     12v 5w

Cornering Lamp  12v 21w

So front bar indicators should be 21 watties.

J

thanks jay!

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

Jay,

You have a Skyline manual, how did you score that?

See'ya:burnout:

:P :P

It's just the owners manual... Not the workshop manual :P

I'd looooove to get hold of a workshop manual.

My last cars I'd always get a Gregory's manual so I could work on the car myself. With the Skyline I'm a bit nude, but willing to get in there and give it a go.

J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
    • okay, so I figured this out, removed needles and reinstalled after swapping the gauge face on my triple gauge for my ER34, all work and look good. I tried to do the same for the main cluster, but the main cluster gauge faces are dished, the replacement gauge face are flat, so due to the dish in the org face ,mounting backing plate (clear) and depth of the needle, the flat gauge face will not work. I notice that R34 gtr gauges are flat, appears to be different clear backing plate that aren't dished. are these available, or what have others done to install flat gauge faces?
    • Cheers mate. Seems some people get lucky others don't. It looks like the motor was detonating (to be expected if it was overboosting I suppose) as the pistons had a lot of detonation damage, and the bearings were stuffed. The bores were very scoured too, not sure if that's from the pistons or bits of ceramic turbo. By the by now. Have been trying to avoid the rabbit hole too much on the rebuild, and there's been a few hurdles along the way, but with any luck I'll have the car back soon™. Might even pop up a thread then.  
×
×
  • Create New...