Jump to content
SAU Community

Plug Gaps And Splitfires

Bass Junky

By Bass Junky,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
Posted

Hi Gents,

Now that I have my shiney new Splitfire Coil Packs (Big Thanks to the guys at Kudos Motorsports) I need to fit them.

My current plugs are gapped at about 0.7-0.8mm.

What should I gap them too?

Would 1.0 - 1.1 be about right?

BASS OUT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87888-plug-gaps-and-splitfires/
Share on other sites
Fastrotor Proficient

Fastrotor

Posted
Posted

If its any interest to anyone, i've tested my std gtst old coils and the new splitfires, and aside from the primary winding resistance being .6 ohms against the stock ones .7 ohms, the secondary coil current is the same as the stock old ones(1.4ma). Also the spark gap they will jump is also the same.......(18mm)

This was using a set frequency coil tester, around 50 - 60 hz odd...... for 9000 rpm the freq would be 75 hz, so pretty close. stock coil might drop off abit at high freq, but i dont think its as much as they seem to indicate.

Anyone else done testing to argue otherwise ?

Gary

ed Grand Master

ed

Posted
Posted
If its any interest to anyone, i've tested my std gtst old coils and the new splitfires, and aside from the primary winding resistance being .6 ohms against the stock ones .7 ohms,  the secondary coil current is the same as the stock old ones(1.4ma).  Also the spark gap they will jump is also the same.......(18mm)

This was using a set frequency coil tester, around 50 - 60 hz odd...... for 9000 rpm the freq would be 75 hz,  so pretty close.  stock coil might drop off abit at high freq, but i dont think its as much as they seem to indicate.

Anyone else done testing to argue otherwise ?

Gary

I don't even know what you're on about, how can I argue? :lol:

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

They only reason they "seem" much better is a lot of people buy those as opposed to ones off Nissan which probably is more expensive.

I dont think they are any different to stockers... its just that they are a cheaper brand new alternative

A Brand new coil pack is going to be better than one that is 5/10/15 years old

Fastrotor Proficient

Fastrotor

Posted
Posted

Yeah that was my asumption too, there just a blue version of a new coil basically...... there are minor diferences in the primary resistance, and also the core seems to be two E cores instead of all joined together. (ie the metal former is not joined on the sides)

I assumed this when buying them, but since there new and cheaper than nissan, there the ones to get.

I would think all the guys who report more power have old coils starting to break down internally , and worst case externally arcing onto the coil brackets.

Only way i'd believe these are better is run a car on brand new nissan ones till it was blowing the spark out at a certain gap, then swap these in.... but i doubt there would be any gain on new coils.

For interests sake i also tested the secondary current of some other coils .

gtst - 1.4ma

bosch mec 718 2.1ma

S4 rx7 trailing 2.9 ma !

Gary

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
I would think all the guys who report more power have old coils starting to break down internally , and worst case externally  arcing onto the coil brackets.

Thats exactly what ive been thinking for along time ;)

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted

my coils started arcing to the brackets (at least three of them) and as has been mentioned i bought the splitfires because they were cheaper than nissan ones. they look exactly the same, and i can tell you that there was definetly NO power increase when compared to my stock coils when they were working properly ;)

and talking gaps, with my splitfires i have run both coppers and iridiums with the standard 1.1 gap with no problem, but only at 10psi.

siksII Grand Master

siksII

Posted
Posted
Wow I thought we were gettin extra juice outta these Splitfires.... Ripped off!! Just like thier friggin spark plugs..

well talking plugs, i swapped old (40,000kms 2.5year) iridium ix plugs which looked fine for new coppers, no difference. i only changed them because they were old...

i believe the standard coils in conjunction with being old somehow get damaged inside after being exposed to a lot of heat.

mine started arcing all of a sudden, within days after i went to a skidpan day(refer to picture ;) ), lots of sustained high revs, and it was a very hot day

  • 2 weeks later...
Col-GTSX Grand Master

Col-GTSX

Posted
Posted

I found a 10psi 1.1 mm gap was fine on irudiums

but

at 14psi it was blowing out spark.... If i reduce the gap to 0.8 then i get a small flat spot where there is too much fuel and its drowning the spark bsiclly.... So im gonna toss out the split fires and run after market coil packs and spark plug leads....

Should reduce the heat issues these things have also....

$600 for a set of split fires.....

vs.

$400 for a set of 3 double packs from bosch and $100 on a set of leads from autobarn....

Much the same price but i know which will do a better job....

Col-GTSX Grand Master

Col-GTSX

Posted
Posted

Remember this one basic rule....

If you want more power you need...

1. More fuel (040 fuel pump and bigger injectors and maby a fpr)

2. More air (turn up the boost)

3. More ignightion (bigger plug gaps and more power for the spark)

If you dont increase each evenlly you will have trouble....

SLY33 Mentor

SLY33

Posted
Posted

i got 3rwkw increase on back to back dyno runs just by changing to the splitfire coils, which im not claiming is reason to go out and buy em! my std ones were getting temperamental.

Plug gap had to remain at 0.7mm otherwise id get missfires at 1.2bar.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • Duncan
      1992 R32 GT-R Race Car

      By Duncan · Posted

      heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • Duncan
      Oil pan for RB25DET NEO Stagea "version"

      By Duncan · Posted

      meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
    • MBS206
      Starting again

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....
    • MBS206
      Starting again

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!
×
×
  • Create New...