Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Godzilla has been out and about lately http://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/wp050910/w...0godzilla1.html

BTW I would never take my GTR over my 350z for road use.  Which is why I asked what are you looking for :)

KEL CLEARS THROAT..... **YOUR 350z**

And I am still debating the one kill :P

Considering your list of previous cars, R33 GTR, R34 GTT etc etc, maybe try a BMW.

Im from Malaysia as well and if you're looking at an Impul 350Z or a 34 GTR, you can afford the new E90 325i or 330i.

Once modded, and some with superchargers too, they go quite quick..

Nothing compared to a GTR/350Z kinda speed but its a BMW...

everyone has recommended what you should get but no-one asked what you are looking for?

I have a 350z and a GTR, are both are excellent for their purpose.  And each sucks when I try and use them the other way around :)

And therein lies the problem:what is it that we're all after? Me;GT-R all the way,BUT I have another daily driver(or two,plus a mudderboike).If you don't mind all the undue attention from the Rozzers and low-lifes(ie:are you game to leave an R34 unattended),then the GTR may be OK. The 350Z is a beautiful car that would be a much nicer daily driver,and can handle a blat at the track now'n'then. It's been said that the two are about the same purchase price for the original poster of this thread:your call,but I know where I'd plonk the dollars if they were the same price...then fork out $1000 for a P.O.S. to daily drive otherwise!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...