Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well last night i cracked my block in cyclinder 3 right down the bore after making 688hp at the wheels without the NOS on not reved out, the block was a nismo N1 block which we just fitted in after cracking the std one, so looks like the nismo ones are not as strong after all, i was told today that u can get a stronger block called the group a block does anyone have any ideas where these can be bought from?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88010-nismo-n1-block/
Share on other sites

it was a std nismo n1 block, but we have weigh the std gtr33 block and the nismo one and there is no difference in weight thats why its got me wondered if there any different, the most i have made is just over 800hp in all four wheels and she was holding.

There is certainly a difference in price between the std (05U) and the N1(24U) blocks!

I thought that the N1 blocks had thicker wall castings (i.e. smaller water jacket galleries) - perhaps the additional metal is minimal in weight?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88010-nismo-n1-block/#findComment-1589048
Share on other sites

He has sourced things for the USA like 1990 300Z complete front ends made new buy Nissan and for me he has some 1987 Century badges coming and Toyota Japan are doing some new ones for us which delayed the bits by 3 weeks.

If Graham cant get the bit nobody can.

Edited by Guest
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88010-nismo-n1-block/#findComment-1591121
Share on other sites

maybe on the new block if its drag race only grout fill it. On the a brand new rb30 we are building we are grout filling the block as well as running chomoly cylinder liners and a custom sump girdle, that lines the inside of the block and join the thin parts of the block to the girdle.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88010-nismo-n1-block/#findComment-1592619
Share on other sites

usally i make around 650hp without the NOS and this time when we where tuning it we played around with cam timing and found more power so it was going for 700 with out the NOS so maybe the nismo blocks arent as strong as everyone thinks they are. im only runing 87mm pistons so there not to big, i might have to look into cyl liners or the gt block which they claim its thicker again but double the price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88010-nismo-n1-block/#findComment-1595909
Share on other sites

usally i make around 650hp without the NOS and this time when we where tuning it we played around with cam timing and found more power so it was going for 700 with out the NOS so maybe the nismo blocks arent as strong as everyone thinks they are. im only runing 87mm pistons so there not to big,  i might have to look into cyl liners or the gt block which they claim its thicker again but double the price.

Just a question - the new N1 (or standard for that matter) blocks have an 86mm bore. Presumably retaining this bore size would improve strength?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88010-nismo-n1-block/#findComment-1597651
Share on other sites

a few things to clarify

NISMO DO NOT MAKE an N1 Block

NISSAN make the N1 block. It has a higher Nickel content than the Standard RB26 Block and is stronger.

NISMO just realeased their GT Block this year to co-incide(spelling??) with the release of the R34 GTR Z tune. It is the same block used in the GT500 Race Cars.

Gav, increasing the bore size helps you increase the displacement in the engine. Hence why the HKS 2.8L Kit uses 87mm Pistons.

Retaining the original bore size or only going to 86.5mm pistons aids in developing fantastic engine response (not something that is overly focused on in drag setups). Also going to an 87mm bore rasies concerns about the overall strength of the block. It's fine if you run a drag car that gets re-built often but for a street car that need to last, it's an unnecessary risk IMHO.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88010-nismo-n1-block/#findComment-1604280
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...