Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Someone sent a threatening message to my dad this morning. So it's definetly gone.

If anyone else has recieved a message from my phone, pls ignore the little c*nts. I had a few people's number from this forum.

Sorry if I've caused any inconvenience. My number is now cancelled but it doesn't stop the c*nts from accessing the numbers on the SIM card.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/88123-stolen-pda-on-putty-road-crise/
Share on other sites

Man that sucks. Friggin' low lifes.

Someone reading this thread knows something. So if it's you, or you know who it was, do the right thing.

Chuck the phone in a post pack and send it to:

Skylines Australia NSW

PO Box 7

Broadway

NSW 2007

Consider it your good deed for your pathetic little existence. :(

I don't believe it was anyone that was with the SAU crew. The only time I think I could've lost it is when we were at the Shell service station. All were in the cars and ready to leave. I think I may have dropped the phone or someone decided to come in the car to help themselves when I was getting in/out of the car. But I highly doubt it's someone from here.

Called Optus and they said there's nothing they can do because it'll only come back to me since the SIM card is under my name. Hopefully the d*ckhead is stupid enough to call/msg my dad again from his phone.

Thanks for all concerned.

I don't believe it was anyone that was with the SAU crew. The only time I think I could've lost it is when we were at the Shell service station. All were in the cars and ready to leave. I think I may have dropped the phone or someone decided to come in the car to help themselves when I was getting in/out of the car. But I highly doubt it's someone from here.

Called Optus and they said there's nothing they can do because it'll only come back to me since the SIM card is under my name. Hopefully the d*ckhead is stupid enough to call/msg my dad again from his phone.

Thanks for all concerned.

He Dude,

PM me the IMEI. I'll see what I can do.

What's the IMEI?

Check on the box of the phone. or somewhere on the reciept of the phone. (assuming you got it legally)

International Mobile Equipment Identity = IMEI, bascially its like a serial for people to track your phone and where it is abouts. Most people report the IMEI numbers of stolen phones to police, as they can check it against their database to see if its stolen or not.

Also your phone company should know the IMEI number too, they I think some networks can track the IMEI number if someone makes a phone call from it.

Hope this heaps!

Check on the box of the phone. or somewhere on the reciept of the phone. (assuming you got it legally)

International Mobile Equipment Identity = IMEI, bascially its like a serial for people to track your phone and where it is abouts. Most people report the IMEI numbers of stolen phones to police, as they can check it against their database to see if its stolen or not.

Also your phone company should know the IMEI number too, they I think some networks can track the IMEI number if someone makes a phone call from it.

Hope this heaps!

Thats exactly right. Pretty much, it's the serial number for your handset. It never changes no matter what SIM card you put in. It's 15 digits long and it should be on the side of the box and on the receipt for the phone. If not, call Optus and they can give it to you..then PM me the IMEI and I'll see if I can help you out.

Silver Arrowz - Dude if ur with Optus do you have insurance? Are you Prepaid? If billed it will appear as an 'equipment charge' on your bill, normally around $8.13 (inc GST)

If your not sure call Optus 1300 300 937 and find out.

If you do champ, just make a police report (call local cop shop), then call insurance 1800 501 971 M-F 8:30 - 5:30. They will require the police report # to log a claim, so make sure u do it first.

You may be looking at an excess depending on whether u have claimed within the last 2 years with insurance.

If you need futher help drop me a pm.....obviously I work on the mobile side of things for Optus

My 2 Cents

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...