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damn u paul

i said to stop whoring untill i got home!

i only got home late

rather eventful trip home

got pulled over by cops for routine traffic check

said i have to replace back tyres they are 2 bald and if they see me again they gonna pull me over and check my tyres to see if i replaced them otherwise it's a yellow for me! surprisingly he didn't say anything bout my a-pillar boost guage even though he flashed his light for like 5 yrs on it! and the funny thing is he tried telling me that i had tint on my headlights and that my rear spoiler was too high :(

yeah my dad was at the lights with a copper behind him and he must of breathed the wrong way or something because they pulled him over and told him he needed new tyres on his brand spanka off the factory floor clubby! My dad told him this - which is a bad idea - tell a copper they are wrong - but it was so stupid they were determined to pick something wrong in this car.

ahhh tim to whore

after another day at work!

another week and my front bar goes on!

i can't wait!

i will be without a car for like a whole week though i fink!

looks like i will be renting a car! haha good ole ascents lol!

adrian :(

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  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
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