Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 103.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • GTS-t VSPEC

    20904

  • Nizmo

    13582

  • SHUTO-BOY

    6636

  • skyzerr33

    5353

Originally posted by Strich9ine

YAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Booked my clutch in for Thursday morning at Auto Clutch!

DCB 9puck clutch with 2500lbs pressure plate, re-machined flywheel, and thrust bearing..

so all should be right for friday's cruise.... just hope i can "bed it in" before then!

How much was it?

Originally posted by skyzerr33

that setup will be about $850 for kym dan  

we should call ross and tell him what a twit kym is so he charges more hehe

AHAHAHAAHAH!!! :-)

the one that PSI did for me is 2600lbs... i have gotten really used to it now :-) i think mine came up to about 850 aswell but brett used a REALLY good quality one and is really not that hard to push in! Troy next time you hoon past gimme a call and i will let ya feel my clutch! not crutch ahahha!tell me what you think of it..

i hated it 1st of all but really am getting used to it... it's a lot different from a hyundai clutch Kim :-)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...