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  • GTS-t VSPEC

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Pauls car has to be making all a STD GTS turbo can 270rwhp

on one of WA lowest reading Dynos means Hi 300s at the crank

no way can a factory R33 turbo blow more air than that.

Paul gears will be needed when the new cams come along anyway. Paul i can put flames on your 2nd memcal for cruise nights if you want.

our email/doc system is down - which basically means the little work i was going to do i cant do. Actually ive got a busy day - may have to work *gulp* late!

Morning all :)

So paul when u getting the new turbo for more power?

friggin Ben wants a Skyline now - i told dad for him to go take a flying leap and go buy a WRX. My Skyline was compensation for them paying for him to go to America - im not having him get a Skyline anyway - its my little bit handed to be on a platter by my folks - he gets so much more handed to him - so he can bugger off!!

Yeh im kinda pissed of that it took 3-4 days for me to get nowhere but im sure it can be solved with a quick sock in the guts :)

Its his style of humor, i rang him and told him about it and he was all wierd but i thought nothing of it. :slap:

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  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
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