Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 103.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • GTS-t VSPEC

    20904

  • Nizmo

    13582

  • SHUTO-BOY

    6636

  • skyzerr33

    5353

Originally posted by Micko

Ken, better take me off the list for those squirters, not on the budget anymore cos I gotta do a mild upgrade (turbs only).

I reckon Brett Hackett will be keen on them though cos I was telling him about them the other day - he was asking whether you had more;)

Oops , has the war office declared war or you suddenly woke up from the dream and found that someone had to pay for it all and it's you..:D

Cheers

Ken

Originally posted by angel

Why are we all so technical tonight? Anyone comming to the movies Thursday?

Hey , don't look at me .

I'm all for down and dirty but this lot won't let me get in the gutter with you.:D

Cheers

Ken

Originally posted by Micko

Both Ken - actually if I think the car will be quick enough for a while just with the turbs & ecu - gotta leave some things to add on later:D

Start saving for an engine rebuild with forgies cos it aint gonna last too long knowing the

*More boost please*

Micko. Hehehe

Cheers

Ken

Originally posted by angel

Hey Ken, behave. I am an impressionable young lady, and you must be careful about insinuating that unsavoury things are sliding down my throat.

Don't look at me ( again ).

Your the one that wanted it in the gutter.

Just cos it's going past your tonsils to get there....

:D:):D

Cheers

Ken

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Latest Posts

    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
    • Appreciate everything guys. I did go ahead and get an alignment... most of my complains are solved. Car is not perfect, but it's good enough. If I notice uneven tire wear or anything I'll just take everything back to stock.  Thanks again!
    • They still have not shipped the 550cc injectors as they weren't in stock, so in theory I could ask to get the 440cc ones instead, if those work better in my scenario. They're the same price so really shouldn't be an issue. Unfortunately I am not so knowledgeable in most parts of tuning so I wasn't sure what's best to choose between the two. 440cc ones are the lowest they have (not in stock, but available to buy nonetheless).
×
×
  • Create New...