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I want this car

1989 Twin Turbo Callaway Aerobody Corvette #10

Callaway Twin Turbo Engine

Twin Garrett turbochargers with integral wastegates

Twin front mounted oversized ram-air Spearco charge air coolers

Special dual inlet air induction system with high flow K&N air filters

Special 3" dia. Free flow Turbo exhaust system with crossover for export

Stainless steel 3" diameter inlet 5" can Supertrapp mufflers

Heavy duty cooling system with aluminium Griffin racing radiator

Alfa-laval 10 plate oil to water engine oil cooler

Accel/dfi engine management system with Callaway calibration

Racing Electronic Services accel/DFI-GM E.C.U. adaptor system

Bosch injectors, 51.24 PSI at 60 lbs of fuel pressure

Callaway prototype hood with charge-cooler air extractor openings

Callaway prototype Ram-Air high flow capacity nose

Callaway carbon fiber "twist" air inlet

Callaway carbon fiber charge cooler extractor ducts

L-98 engine block, 4 bolt main caps, splayed-bolt style

Michigan engine bearings

Forged gas nitrided crankshaft, 60Rc journal hardness

Proprietary cosworth forged pistons, .006" O/S

Plasma moly ring package

Carillo connecting rods, 5.7 centers, matched and balanced

Experimental short runner fuel injection inlet manifold

High volume oil pump

Hydraulic roller lifters

Specially hardened distributor drive gear

Dry sump pump for turbo oil scavenge

Oversize stainless steel inlet (2.020) and exhaust (1.600) valves

Corvette L-98 cylinder heads killer ports, gas flowed and decked

Dymag 17.0 X 9.5" wheels

Goodyear P275/40 zr 17 tires

Callaway fuel and manufacturer's plaques

Refinish intake manifold/tuned port injection with black wrinkle finish

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  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
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