Why Was My Gtr On Unlimited Boost?

[druzilla32]

GTR, zip tie's to restrict boost.

*shakes head*

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

what do you suggest, and why do you think this wouldnt work?

just because zip ties are cheap, doesnt mean they cant be used as a temporary solution to keep boost levels down until the motor has been properly run in.

again.. why wouldnt this work?

[Beer Baron]

best way to run the lowest boost possible is to run a pressure feed from somewhere after the comressor outlet, directly to a T, then the two hoses off the T directly to the wastegate acuators with no restrictor in place. this should get you down to around 7 or 8psi.

the reason i say the actuaros are not the proble is if they had failed you would be getting very little boost as the exhaust flow would be able to just push open the wastegate flap (without the actuator to hold it closed).

[pnblight]

what do you suggest, and why do you think this wouldnt work?

just because zip ties are cheap, doesnt mean they cant be used as a temporary solution to keep boost levels down until the motor has been properly run in.

again.. why wouldnt this work?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

YOUR F..KING JOKING ARENT YOU SURELY?

if you bought a GTR you can afford a $99 dollar bleed valve

i think you should just sell the car as a beautiful ride like the GTR was never meant for someone like you. These car are an enginnering work of act and should be treat with some respect. Go turbo an Excel or something

pete

ps by the way it won't work

[druzilla32]

how can a bleed valve get the boost down?

the way i see it, bleeding the air out is what i Dont want to do

[Beer Baron]

ps by the way it won't work

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

just further to that the reason it won't work is that reducing the ID of the pressure feed line to the actuators will if anything increase boost as you are effectively restricting the pressure acting on the wastegate actuator. less pressure on the actuator means wastegate stays closed longer = more boost seen at engine.

[Amaru]

As everyone else has said, if you run just a raw vacuum line to the actuators you will have the minimum possible boost on the car (if the actuators have 7psi springs in them, then the wastegates will open at 7psi).

Obviously the vacuum lines were either not hooked back up properly or split when you were checking them if it was working until it was played around with.

Not being a bastard, but I would suggest you trailer it to a reputable mechanics and get them to fix up any issues in future (and you can watch them if you want to learn whats going on).

[druzilla32]

i was talking about tightening the hose up where the boost restrictor use to be, and closing the hose up to about the same as when the restrictor was in place..

im not talking about the hose to the actuators.. i mean the one where the restrictor is.. (the yellow ring around the hose near the battery)

[Amaru]

If you are keeping the standard boost control solenoid then id suggest you spend 30 minutes of your time trying to find a wrecker that has the vacuum hose with the restrictor still in place that you can buy and then use on your car.

[druzilla32]

YOUR F..KING JOKING ARENT YOU SURELY?

if you bought a GTR you can afford a $99 dollar bleed valve

i think you should just sell the car as a beautiful ride like the GTR was never meant for someone like you. These car are an enginnering work of act and should be treat with some respect. Go turbo an Excel or something

pete

ps by the way it won't work

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

i think your thinking of the wrong hose..

im talking about the hose to the solenoid.. not the actuators

[Tangles]

If its been rebuilt recently, and is being installed as we chat, then let the engine builders fix the problem!!

Must admit tho, when I put my Nissan Stagea wagon through the registration process here in Adelaide around 8 weeks ago after I bought it from Qld, I took out all of the bolt on parts, which included a manual turn screw type Turbosmart Boost Controller, situated next to the airbox.

When I uninstalled it, and plugged back up 2 lines to the engine bay with the 3rd line being plugged up with a bolt and ziptied on (and just hanging free), my boost rose as far as it wanted to! So I know where you are coming from. Scary when you are just down the block and boost its 1bar on a stock engine (allbeit for 2secs)!

I believe that this happened due to the previous owner taking out the T-piece and a restrictor (going by memory, search posts by CoolPC, he makes mention of how to up the boost to 10psi by uninstalling a couple of factory parts).........

I fixed this problem by reinstalling the boost controller (after I drove away from the engine bay inspection), and then had the car tuned and had a electronic boost controller (Hybrid brand) installed along with a heap of other goodies. 141.3kw at the 4 wheels at 10psi.

Brendan

Edited September 22, 2005 by bwilkeson

[blind_elk]

just further to that the reason it won't work is that reducing the ID of the pressure feed line to the actuators will if anything increase boost as you are effectively restricting the pressure acting on the wastegate actuator. less pressure on the actuator means wastegate stays closed longer = more boost seen at engine.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

In a closed system, pressure is equal in all directions. So, regardless of the ID of the hose, the pressure is the same at the actuator whether a restrictor is in place or not.

The simplest way to restrict the boost, as has already been suggested, is to directly activate the actuators (rather than let a control valve bleed off some pressure, which increases the boost pressure necessary to open the wastegates).

[Beer Baron]

you would think that wouldn't you but i can tell you in practice if you get a little resrictor 'olive' and place it in the pressure feed before the actuator (s) with say a 2mm hole in it you will get more boost.

a number of nissans have their boost raised this way.

i'm not saying wrapping cable ties around the hose will do the same thing though. i would say that will do bugger all.

[druzilla32]

you would think that wouldn't you but i can tell you in practice if you get a little resrictor 'olive' and place it in the pressure feed before the actuator (s) with say a 2mm hole in it you will get more boost.

a number of nissans have their boost raised this way.

i'm not saying wrapping cable ties around the hose will do the same thing though. i would say that will do bugger all.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

are you talking about the hose the the actuators or the standard boost solenoid?

cuz im talking about the solenoid

i can see how restricting the hose to the actuators will raise boost tho

[pnblight]

ok if your determined not to spend $99 to do it properly but are willing to risk motor damage.

you need a direct line boost/vacuvm line to the actuator (no leaks/holes or slits) test this and it should make only ~7psi

then if you want to raise the level ,tee in another line to this and fit a solid pill resistor START VERY SMALL (try 1mm then 1.5mm etc)vent it back into the intake piping in the std position (on the rear turbo intake hod\se you will find a small line this is the point to return the bleed prssure back(DO NOT VENT TO ATMOSPHERE) as under vacuvm this line will draw in air (dirt dust etc)

your solid pill can be anything make of metal (brass, steel, cut of bolt etc) with a hole drill in it DO NOT USE A CABLE TIE around the pipe as there is no way to properly adjust it and i dont believe you will get the resistion you need plus what happens to cable tie with heat and age they break and stretch. You do this you deserve to loose another engine.

the method above will work but i will warn you the boost levels will change with the weather etc and you have no way to adjust it to componsate. ie you might set it to 12psi on a heat dry day and on a cold humid day it could make 14psi plus (bye bye std turbos)

pete

[druzilla32]

no i dont want any raised boost at all, thats why i dont want a bleeder. nooo bleederr an ebc will be on its way shortly.

anyway

i beleive if the hose to the SOLENOID is disconnected completly and there are no leaks from pressure to the actuators, then this should run standard boost. (or whatever the spring is set to)

[druzilla32]

If you are keeping the standard boost control solenoid then id suggest you spend 30 minutes of your time trying to find a wrecker that has the vacuum hose with the restrictor still in place that you can buy and then use on your car.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

i will be upgrading the solenoid shortly

[Beer Baron]

anyway

i beleive if the hose to the SOLENOID is disconnected completly and there are no leaks from pressure to the actuators, then this should run standard boost. (or whatever the spring is set to)

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

ok, i admit i haven't studied the standard boost control set-up. but i will say this generally there are a number of parts to a stock system:

pressure going to solenoid

pressure going from solenoid (to WG actuators)

air bleed from solenoid (usually returned to air intake pre turbo)

now if you disconect pressure feed to the solenoid you will get unlimited boost

if you disconnect the line going from solenoid to WG actuators you will get unlimited boost

if you disconect the bleed line nothing will happen (except and air leak pre-turbo if you don't bung that hole).

[Beer Baron]

for what feels like the hundredth time. the way to run lowest possible boost is the run a pressure feed (basically from anywhere between the compressor outlet and the throttles) directly to both actuators. simple.

[druzilla32]

now if you disconect pressure feed to the solenoid you will get unlimited boost

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

sorry but this doesnt run unlimited boost, it runs standard boost

[steve_gts4]

sorry but this doesnt run unlimited boost, it runs standard boost

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

haehehheahe this is funny.. run "standard boost" then and see how long your motor lasts