Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt Boost Cut

gts4-skyline

By gts4-skyline,
in Forced Induction Performance

 Share

Recommended Posts

gts4-skyline Contributor

gts4-skyline

Posted
Posted

I have just had my car on the dyno today, and was told it was hitting a boost cut at 12psi. I thought the cut would have been higher than that. Can anybody comfirm what the boost cut is so I can investigate further if it isn't.

I ended up getting 208 rwkw at 5615rpm on 10psi with a 2 3/4 cat back exhaust, k&N panel filter and a SAFC II, so I am happy, but 12psi would make me even happier

Cheers

Glenn

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ecl Mentor

ecl

Posted
Posted

tats a pretty nice figure with just exhaust, filter, safc and 10 psi

satanic on this forum had 194 or something with the same mods except he had FMIC and just a catback so i guess its pretty similar

i think some ppl experience boost cut at anything above 10 with the standard ecu

i thought the safc would remove the boost cut? hmm, i guess im wrong then

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

Sounds like a pretty happy dyno but just the same it sounds alright to me. Knowing what I know now (as opposed to before I went too far) I would sit back and accept that as pretty good and enjoy it.

Post your dyno sheet if you like and we can comment on that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
Posted

I mean Richen the fuel, retard the timing, recover.

repeat.

I didn't want you to think I thought you were a rich retard!!!

Rich/Retard is what happens when the stock computer sees higher than expected airflow/boost etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mad34 Experienced

mad34

Posted
Posted

Hey guys what does the standard boost gauge go up to??

does +1 mean 14 or so psi??

is it fairly accurate?

mine goes up to about 2mm from the +1?

roughly how much would it boosting do you guys reckon??

my gtt when fully boosting sometimes pops a little at around 5krpm could this be the boost cut??

i really would like to try and find out what is causing this before i go and replace coils and get safc etc??

Link to comment
Share on other sites
NJR 34GTT Proficient

NJR 34GTT

Posted
Posted

That's not boost/fuel cut. Boost fuel/cut will make the car jerk and will throw you a bit forward if you are accelerating hard enough when it does it.

Yes 1 on the stock boost gauge is approximately 14psi.

The popping is unburnt fuel in the exhaust and nothing to worry about.

Your graph looks very similar to mine when it was tuned poorly running 13-14 psi of boost. You may want to get that checked out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

Another R34GTT tune... 208rwkw is a very good number! I presume your car is a manual? This may explain the variance of 13-14kw between yours and mine since we have pretty much the same mods.

However, if you look at the graph in my blog, you'll notice that curve does not have any 'kinks' in it... maybe if you sort that out you'll be looking at 220rwkw which should be the correct difference between auto and manual.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
choyda Veteran

choyda

Posted
Posted
Hey guys what does the standard boost gauge go up to??

does +1 mean 14 or so psi??

is it fairly accurate?

mine goes up to about 2mm from the +1?

roughly how much would it boosting do you guys reckon??

my gtt when fully boosting sometimes pops a little at around 5krpm could this be the boost cut??

i really would like to try and find out what is causing this before i go and replace coils and get safc etc??

Sorry to sort of diverge from the topic but is yours a series 2 R34 because of the R34 GTT's I've seen around here (QLD), the series 2 cars seem to boost close to the +1 but the series 1s go to about the 3/4 line (the mark before) and rarely over that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
mad34 Experienced

mad34

Posted
Posted
Sorry to sort of diverge from the topic but is yours a series 2 R34 because of the R34 GTT's I've seen around here (QLD), the series 2 cars seem to boost close to the +1 but the series 1s go to about the 3/4 line (the mark before) and rarely over that.

mine is a series one

with exhaust fmic airfilter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • r32-25t
      R32 Gtr Long Term Love, Now Project

      By r32-25t · Posted

      Took a little trip  went to nismo hoping the get my fuel tank hoses and unfortunately they told me they didn’t have stock luckily I was able to go to a Nissan parts store and they were able to order them in for me  then can home and cleaned the tank with some degreaser and fitted the new hoses before putting it back in the car 
    • funkymonkey
      R32 Nostalgia

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      100% I’ll hack into the 33. Strap a turbo onto the RB25DE and/or put the 25 head on a 30 block. 33 passed in cos the reserve was too high. I’ll try lowballing it again and negotiate. Aim is to have it landed and on the road for under 15k, then spend the same amount on top in mods.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      It's generally best practise to run 1x run without VCT enabled, then 1x run enabled till redline. Overlay the two torque graphs and you'll find the desired RPM to turn off VCT. Sometimes, it might be even worthwhile turning off VCT earlier control torque/cylinder pressure and using VCT purely to spool the turbo.
    • r32-25t
      Bolt dress up kit

      By r32-25t · Posted

      They sell them in Malaysia for about $4
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      First time I ever have issues with Amazon, but my wife often tells me to keep an eye out for fakes. It finally got me. I wrapped up the conversation with Gates. The gentlemen I was talking to seemed to hate his job but the response time on their technical support is outstanding. He stated that the hose is marked with some variation of "SAE J30R10" but that if you only purchase a 1 foot length like I did, it is possible to get a cut between markings and have a blank hose. To no ones surprise, he stated the swelling and "gummyness" isn't normal and to replace/buy from somewhere else (He mentioned NAPA). I'll toss a small end of the new one in gas for a few days before pulling the hanger out again, just to be safe.  Hose should arrive Monday. For those running multiple pump in tank hangers, you know the joys of getting them out and back in. I'm surprised I haven't destroyed my level float yet.  Lastly once I wrap all of this up, I'm planning on hitting the dyno again in 2 weeks while I'm on vacation. I realized recently that my VCT is set to turn off at 5000RPM. I'm surprised it wasn't increased while I was on the dyno last. I'm expecting I can increase it to ~6500RPM, if not more. Should hopefully get another 15-20kw out of it. I also want him to revisit my knock thresholds. I'm occasionally getting false knock around 3000rpm. 
×
×
  • Create New...