Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had my car checked out by them, cost 330 or so, not sure if thats becasue they had to get some1 that knew about imports, or because they checked it at a house.

Either way they did an ok job, i picked up a few things they didnt after, though all in i think it was worth it.

If i had to do it again, knowing what I do, id opt to pay my mechanic to check it over...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8894-nrma/#findComment-131195
Share on other sites

Yeh you see the problem is I dont have any mechanic that i know who knows stuff about skylines well.... I've been offered by a few guys on the board help but im thinking of getting the nrma and a persons from the board or one of their mechanics to check it out so that way i cant lose....u never can be too safe!!

Im willing to spend the money to get quality!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8894-nrma/#findComment-131278
Share on other sites

You want to buy a Skyline locally? $330 sounds like a lot. You might want to get some people here who know what to look for to give it the once over...

When I got my Skyline from the ship I had some mates go over it and give me a sorta inventory of what's on it and what needed to be fixed.

T.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8894-nrma/#findComment-131286
Share on other sites

I had one as well, $275 about 2 years ago.

Cheap insurance. They may not 100% on the all the electrics etc, but they can sure spot repairs etc, and most of the guys who are doing inspections are quite capable mechanically.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8894-nrma/#findComment-131395
Share on other sites

hey Guy's,

just speaking from personal experience, but my view is that unless you're after basically a visual check, i would not be getting an inspection done. About 3 years ago when i was looking at buying a particualr GTS25t I had an inspection done on the car I wanted. The price was about as high as you guys have allready stated and the guy was test driving the car for well over an hour. His verdict was that the car was bordering on excellent. Of course he pointed out all the scratches etc etc. Following this I let the importer know that I wanted the car, and 2 days later I got a phone call from the broker saying that the car was at it's warranty check and was only running on 5 cylinders. This was not picked up by the NRMA guy in anyway shape of form and when I called to ask why it was missed, his response was " we don';t have x-ray vision to look inside engines". My advise is get a trusted mechanic that is known to you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8894-nrma/#findComment-131760
Share on other sites

When I sold my last car the buyer had it inspected at BD4's in Sydney. They did a pretty good job, not sure what they charged but went right over the car, engine, drive train, you name it. Getting it done at a workshop meant they could put the car on a hoist and the mechanic also drove the car with us in it to test it on the road. Verdict.

"mate cars in good nick apart from being BLOODY LOW"

:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8894-nrma/#findComment-132019
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...