Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im looking for an R33 and i found this on Carsales. Just wondering if anybody knows anything about this car, its history or if it seems like a good price for the year and modifications. If theres anything that you want to say but not post please PM me. Thanks for your help.

http://carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!c...rch_distance=25

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89060-is-this-r33-a-good-price/
Share on other sites

It LOOKS ok, but you will have to see it in the flesh, give it a good look over and take for a test drive. Then you may be able to form some opinion on whether it is a good price or not. Impossible to tell from what is written there.

Agreed,

It's also freshly imported, so he's trying to make cash.

Another thing to check... there's normally a reason why Japs respray cars.... make sure you check for accident damage / rust very very very carefully.

yeah mate there is sum really good importers around sydney also in thornton in newcastle.......

:) i got mine 33 from Australia Compliance Workshop in Thornton, Newy.. friendly service, cheap prices.... too much to mention... ask for Ron (the owner) and tell him the guy who bought the black 33 a month ago referred ya :(

:)  i got mine 33 from Australia Compliance Workshop in Thornton, Newy.. friendly service, cheap prices.... too much to mention... ask for Ron (the owner) and tell him the guy who bought the black 33 a month ago referred ya  :huh:

Lol yeah i went to Rons last week. L Plater 33 went there with me he's just trying to be a cunny funt, its where he bought his 33gtst too. While he was on his L's (cough parents are wogs cough).

Yeah he had a nice 96 series 2 with 18' Volk racing rims, kit, cat back and wing and it was 19500. Had a Apexi power FC too, but it didnt run as well as my mates, meaning it pulled nowhere near as hard. All that my mate has extra is a HKS front mount, pod and CAI. Should there be that much of a difference because of these modifications?

I was thinking the poor performance could be due to the tune done in Japan. RX engineering quoted me $600 to tune, plus i would have to buy a second hand hand controller cos it got ripped during transit, so that went a bit past my budget. They said they are a pain in the ass to tune and require around 7-8 hours dyno time to get a good result, apparently a lot of load points or something?

They recommended (i think) a Microtech, priced at $1400, plus $200 for a tune, again going past my budget.

And it also had a drift gearknob which worried me.

Security, yeah thats cheap but you lose a fair bit from auto, plus the year and kms.

EDIT: and im guessing it looked nothing like it does in your pic it looks awesome atm

Edited by Lukeisbuyinga33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...