Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The best setup for a turbo car is for virtually no restriction. The exhaust wheel will spin more freely the less exhaust backpressure there is. A 3.5" system sounds good, and removal of centre mufflers and cat will also work well, the less restriction the better.

See'ya:burnout:

JiMiH,

With a factory turbo on a samll capacity engine then there is almost no benefit to going too big, I'd say that a 4" dump is more than enough.

sidewaymambo,

The best in terms of power is a dump with nothing after it, but this is too loud and the cops will pull you over straight away. A large dump with separate wastegate pipe followed by no cat or cetre muffler and with a muffler at the very end is the best street setup. Be warned however that this is still very loud and no cat is illegal.

See'ya:burnout:

I can testify to my brothers 180SX which runs an apexi N1, fat dump pipe and no cat. Goes like s.hit of a shiny shovel, but the drawbacks are A: no cat's are highly illegal and B: the noise shakes your car port apart when you come home and leave the turbo timer on.

GTSt V-Spec: you know anyone in perth who does good dump pipes?

There are plenty of people who can do a good exhaust dump but I tend to use Genie exhausts in Myaree, they are very good as the do all of the Xspeed work and are now very good at doing custom work for Jap cars.

See'ya:burnout:

I have an R33 with stock turbo + Nismo 3" Cat-back exhaust.

Can someone -please- give me an exact URL of exactly what front section of my exhaust i need to replace the standard section ?

I have absolutely no idea what i need, where to get it done and how much it'll cost but i -do- want to get it done very soon.

benm,

If you go to any exhaust place and ask for a custom turbo dump pipe with separate internal wastegate pipe to connect to your 3" system then they should have no problems. Expect to pay anywhere from $250-$350 for a custom job, you can always buy a Jap dump but they are usually more expensive.

See'ya:burnout:

GODF4Th3R,

Doing everything it alway the best, the dump is very important, but if your strangling it with the front pipe and cat then it's not going to do too much. The exhaust will only flow as well as the most restrictive bit.

Hi-flow cat's are the go, will add a little bit extra power at standard boost, but will make more difference as you increase the power.

See'ya:burnout:

Your dead right, heat is our enemy. By increasing the airflow then the heat is removed via the exhasut system, with a restriction in the exhasut then it causes excessive heating of the turbo exhaust housing and this leads to the car pinging as it pre-heats the air.

See'ya:burnout:

I got XSpeed to get me the whole lot (dump, front pipe and 3" hi flo) They get theirs done at Genie Myaree as GTSt VSpec mentioned earlier. It cost me just under $800.

Apparently, it used to be cheaper as they used different cat(ceramic?), but they tended to break apart. Mine was one of the newer designs. It cost a little more, but I haven't had any problems so far.

Another question; isn't is true that the further from the turbo the restriction (eg the rear silencer) the less effect on back pressure and HP? So if you do the dump and front pipe in a decent size (say 4") then run a high flow cat and legal 3" cat back it should be better than running say a stock dump and front pipe with a 3.5" cat back?

G0DF4Th3R,

Kichigai is right, you can get a complete system from Genie pretty cheap these days, but if you want a name brand muffler like APexi/Trust etc then they cost about $500 by themselves.

Ronin 09,

Yes your right, what happens is that a wave of backpressure, like sound waves, oscillates between the ends of the exhaust system, the further the restrtictions are away the less effect this has on the backpressure and ultimately HP, also the reason tuned length exhaust manifold are better.

See'ya:burnout:

Oh man i wish i could find a workshop that actually knew what they were on about.

Midas had no idea and told me to come back next tuesday when their "exhaust specialist" would be in and Muffler man just told me to go and see a turbo shop.

ARGH maybe i should just walk in somewhere with a $50 note glued to my head so that they realise im serious.

Benm, search the threads for 'exhaust' and see if there are any recommended in Perth. I would get a custom dump and front pipe made for your car instead of getting the Nismo one, as it will be heaps cheaper and do as good a job. Because your Nismo cat back is already pretty quiet, the addition of the dump and front pipe shouldn't add too much dB.

Or you could get a premade dump and front pipe from somewhere like Japanese Motorsport, they have stainless dump pipes for 350 and stainless front pipes for 350. Just make sure they will bolt up to the cat converter in the factory position (assuming you have the stock cat)

-cheers m

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...