Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think you'd be best getting it serviced approximately every 5,000kms as everyone suggests..

I've only done just over 3,000kms in it - but want to get some decent oils and so forth into it before the summer comes along and get it checked over.

Yours would be worth checking that the timing belt has been changed - if I lived in castle hill I would possibly pay the full amount to get an excellant service done on it. or as everyone recommends Nathan..

On a car that's done 100,000kms without any thing for you to go on you probably want someone to check over it as there can be small things that cost you alot later..

Cheers

I think you'd be best getting it serviced approximately every 5,000kms as everyone suggests..

I've only done just over 3,000kms in it - but want to get some decent oils and so forth into it before the summer comes along and get it checked over.

Yours would be worth checking that the timing belt has been changed - if I lived in castle hill I would possibly pay the full amount to get an excellant service done on it. or as everyone recommends Nathan..

On a car that's done 100,000kms without any thing for you to go on you probably want someone to check over it as there can be small things that cost you alot later..

Cheers

Thats true...although there's this little plaque thing in japanese on the front of my engine which I'm guessing is the 100,000km service plaque which eased my mind a bit but I think that's a good suggestion.

Cheers

AF

Just my 2c for Grey Imports, aka Nathan. I have had my Cefiro thru the workshop a couple of times and all i can say is AWESOME!!!

Nathan is a honest bloke who will always give you the time of day!

An example is one Sat arvo, after he normally would of shut up shop my Ceffie had a issue. I called him up and was happy for me to take it down to him right then and there.....in his own time, that arvo he fixed the issue up!

Top bloke and would truely recommed him!

Ando

Thats true...although there's this little plaque thing in japanese on the front of my engine which I'm guessing is the 100,000km service plaque which eased my mind a bit but I think that's a good suggestion.

Cheers

AF

Actually I think you'll find its a sticker reminding you to change the belt at 100,000.

Best to change it and save an engine/

  • 2 weeks later...

Well thought i'd give an update on the service..

Dropped my car in at Polmar yesterday morning at 8:30.. left it in Eli's hands to go over for the day while I was at work..

Got a call at about 3:00pm telling me everything was finished..

I'd asked for a Engine, Gearbox and Diff oil change.. He was kind enough not to change the Diff oil as he thought it was still fine (i didn't mind).. flushed and changed the Engine, Gearbox and Oil filter..

Overall car is running much better, oil pressure is just over 2 at idle whereas before it sat on 2.. must be the difference in the oil rating..

Cost me a bit over $140 in Labour and about $180 in parts + oils..

Goto say.. my gear box slides in smoother than a ...... in a .......

I LOVE IT!!..

anyways.. thought i'd give some feedback, appears that the car has been well looked after before I got it, no metal in the gearbox oil on the magnet and everything runs well.. so i'm a happy man

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...