Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Just something i've been wondering about the last couple of days:

How and why has Nissan decided the redline/rev limit in the different capacity Rb engines? For a start, the 20 with the shortest stroke has a limiter around 7500, the 25 (s1 r33) has the limiter around 7k (mine was at 6850 or so with the stock computer) with the next longest stroke and the 26 is up around 8 with a longer stroke again.

What i'm wondering is obviosly the stroke has little to do with it so is it the crank design (counter weighted vs not?), or is it the head design? the 20 and 25 share similar lifts, durations and hydraulic lifters so why the 500rpm difference, while the 26 has solid lifters and bigger cams (so more stable at higher rpm?).

Or is it the stock turbo?

How do people with rb30dets decide on a safe limit to use? And whats to stop me (other than increased engine wear) raising the limiter on my rb25 considering my power is still rising pretty rapidly at redline?

Thanks for any replys,

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90224-rb20252630-redline-question/
Share on other sites

the rb20 has a higher limiter as it has a short stroke, and smaller capacity the shock loading, power generated by each revolution and some other factors is lower thus the engine can safely rev higher. The 25 has a relatively low limiter or a few reasons the main two are the rods are weaker than say an rb26, and the engine doesnt need to rev any harder as it is out of its effeciency range, the cams, cam timing, head flow dont work as effecienty above 7g so why bother reving it. Also the car was never marketed as a race bread car rather a good sports car, and a good sports car should have good low end response as well as up top go. The rb26 is a race bread engine. The bigger revs are a result of better engineering and the need to rev a short stroked engine to make the power, other factors such as head design solid lifters etc accomodate higher revs.

When building a rb30 with a twin cam head setting a limiter is really a mater of how the whole package is set up. What sort internals have been used, what is the head setup like??? However on a rb30 regardless of build you dont really ever need to take it beyond 7500RPM, as usually they have rolled over on the power curve anyway and alot of other strengthening work needs to be done to safely rev beyond 7.5-8g. This isnt a really technical answer but I am sure you will get the idea.

BH dave you can raide the limiter I have done it to 3 gtst, have raised the limiter to 8 because they where still making power till redline, However 2 of those cars spat rods out the side as the oil pumps didnt like that any rpms. The other we tuned with adjustable cam gear on the inlet to get it rolling over at about 7.2 with the limiter now set at 7.5k. Its a mater of the condition of the car as much as anything else, however rb25 do blow far easier in my experiece by making around with limters, boost and timing than the other rb series and it comes down to some of the stuff I mentioned above!!!

So since I am rebuilding my RB25 NEO (solid lifters) with RB26 rods and possibly some cams, does that mean I can safely rev it a bit higher?

I note that the NEO RB25 has a 7050 redline rather than the 6850 redline of earlier models however I can't say it does much with the extra revs in my experience.

One thing that bugs me is from what i have seen midly modified rb20's make peak hp bewteen 6200 - 6800 rpm. Engines without cams this is.

Then pretty much the power dies of.

So really not sure why people swing the rb20 beyond 7k in these states of mods.

So since I am rebuilding my RB25 NEO (solid lifters) with RB26 rods and possibly some cams, does that mean I can safely rev it a bit higher?

I note that the NEO RB25 has a 7050 redline rather than the 6850 redline of earlier models however I can't say it does much with the extra revs in my experience.

Unless somehow the Nissan FAST IPC is wrong, your R34 NEO engine already has RB26 rods.. rod p/n 12100-05u01

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...