Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have placed up a full tutorial on this, from start to finish.. This question gets asked regularly, so it was about time *somebody* did it and wrote up exactly how they did it..

Due to the server here always losing my images for any period of time, I've decided to put it all on my project website..

http://www.project32.net/tutorials.php

Photos aren't actually up yet as I am still resizing, etc (and there are quite a few)... but for now you can read through. They will be up in a few days.

cheers,

Gordon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90401-r32-installing-rb25-turbo/
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

I just used predator's guide yesterday and did my conversion. I just thought I'd post a few things that I have found.

Predator, feel free to use them in your guide if you agree.

1) Drop the coolant in the normal fashion before un-doing the water lines on the turbo (so drain from radiator) You are going to lose it all anyways, this way it's not as messy

2) I had to change water lines (89 GTST 4 door) and I can now tell you how you can work it out BEFORE you go to all the effort. Predator pointed out you need a 24mm socket for the water lines...well mine were 22mm, which obviously means it was a different size! So... you just need to get to the water lines and see what size socket it is. You still will have to remove the intake pipe, but it's only a 15 minute job to check to save you either stress or money about if you will need them.

3) I put the nipple onto the compressor housing and it is working fine. So if you are likely to change FMIC pipes it may be a better option *shrugs* up to you, apparently there is no performance difference by putting it in either spot.

4) Clean your water lines while they are out (if you take them out)

Cheers

Chris

Edited by eXc
  • 3 months later...

i went off this guide its great so helpfull good job mate. i found that to get that tricky line off close to the engine where you had to take it off the block instead. you can take that oil line off next to it the rollercoaster one like a loop d loop! and you can undo that water line off the turbo instead of taking the whole line off the car.

i went off this guide its great so helpfull good job mate. i found that to get that tricky line off close to the engine where you had to take it off the block instead. you can take that oil line off next to it the rollercoaster one like a loop d loop! and you can undo that water line off the turbo instead of taking the whole line off the car.

BINGO! that's spot on the money. that's the way i do them too. It's easy to get the line off from under the car once you take the oil line off.

you don't even have to take the oil line off - you can do it with the oil line on, but it makes it a lot easier.

  • 1 year later...

hey just did this a couple of hours ago

few things i noticed

make sure u take off the oil return first, i forgot all about that until i went to take if off the car,

i left the dump pipe on the turbo and just undid the 3 bolts going to the front pipe, then when i installed it, i put the turbo back in the car with my new just jap split dump and front pipe attached to it,

the stupid line at the back of the turbo i could get a spanner on, yet couldnt be stuffed turning it that many times to get it off, so i undid the turbo from the manifold, carefuly slid it forward then used a socket and ratchet to take the line off, put it back on that way to (ratchet on, then bolt turbo to manifold)

i also took the actuator off the turbo while still in the car

also when i undid the oil drain, i undid the 2 12 mm bolts off the turbo instead of the flexible pipe

  • 5 weeks later...

Yeah, use the RB 20 actuator. The RB25 actuator is set to something like 4psi.

There are a few differences with the turbos. A series 2 r33 turbo is the same as a series 1 r34 turbo. The both feture the nylon (i think thats the name for it) impeller wheel. Helps it to spool faster.

A series 2 r34 turbo has the same impeller wheel but has a OP6 rear housing. The rear housing is similer to the size of a VG30 turbo. You might see a little bit more lag with the bigger rear housing on the RB20.

  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
  • 2 months later...

Bookmarked your project website. Thanks

I have placed up a full tutorial on this, from start to finish.. This question gets asked regularly, so it was about time *somebody* did it and wrote up exactly how they did it..

Due to the server here always losing my images for any period of time, I've decided to put it all on my project website..

http://www.project32.net/tutorials.php

Photos aren't actually up yet as I am still resizing, etc (and there are quite a few)... but for now you can read through. They will be up in a few days.

cheers,

Gordon

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...