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Hi Guys,

I got a mate who just bought a S1 R33 GTST who has had nothing but trouble from day 1 and i literally mean day 1.

On day one, the car overheated so the dealer replaced the radiator. He drove it back home (which was very very far away) so the warranty ran out.

After one hard run, and I mean just one hard run, the car started stalling at times and misfiring. So we checked the ignitor coils and lead... and you would guess what?? after taking off the valley cover what we saw was the connectors on the leads were melted, and some where not even assemblies (leads were cable tied to the ignitor coil to hold it in place).

Two days later, the car sprayed engine oil (definitely engine oil as oil levels dropped considerably after this) all over the drivers side of the engine bay as well as the area on the block below the turbo however the top on the engine was spared. The turbo is yet to be checked.

The car started two more times and then no more... We check the spark plugs and that section was full of oil (in and around the ignitor coils). That has sinced been drained of oil but still no go.

Engine oil has been changed and the levels have not dropped since but the car also has not started.

Could it be the turbo seals? I also do noticed that the is an oil cooler tube on the drivers side also but that looks ok.

So if someone could possibly hint some suggestions in what could be causing the oil leaks it would be great. Thank you

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Take off the intake pipe and see if there is a shit load of oil in there, hopefully there is meaning turbo seal. If there is heaps of oil around the throttle flap then maybe turbo seal. Doesn't explain all oil on engine though - unless it is being pushed out near rubber hole on intake etc..

See where the leak is occuring from - if near the block and head join then yeah head gasket!!

Sounds horrendous

Edited by benl1981

Hi Guys,

I only see my mate on the weekends cause I live about 100k's away from him however, from the visual inspection I did last weekend, there didnt seem to be any oil on the heads or between the block and the heads... The oil seems be a bit lower... However I will now check the intake pipe as well.. thanks heaps guys.

And yeah it is horrendous...I just feel real sorry for him as he only had the car 1 1/2 weeks and he already had trouble from day 1... worst of all, he bought this car from a import car yard.

Steve

Edited by Scooby_Steve

Hi Ben,

I will get him to degrease the area around the sump (that's where most of the oil seem to have resided). He also said that the oil was coming out of tube where the oil dipstick stays... I said impossible but he said it was... and lastly, I love to have the car started but it doesnt.. when trying to start the car, the engine sounds like if you were pushing one of those battery powered toy cars that kids can sit in...sound like no sparks

warranty is 3months or 5000kms on cars under 10 years old if they have not already exceeded 160 000km, and 3yrs or 100 00km for new cars, and the dealer can also hand out warranties even if the car is over 10years old, best way is to read the fine print in the contract.

Sounds like the head gasket has let go in a big way.

No-eyed deer is right.....

What exactly makes you think the head gasket has let go in a big way?

Problem is easily resolved....as Duncan sorta suggested....

Do a compression test, this will be a starting point for these symptoms.

Another thing you can try is pour about one capfull of oil down into each sparkplug hole (with spark plugs out of course), put the spark plugs back in and everything back together then try to start the car...although it will not permanently solve your problem, it may start.....If it does, then your problem is clear.

Also PM sent.

Edited by 3LIT3 FORS3

Hi,

Guys, thank you so much for your input.. I really do appreciate all your help.

My mate managed to tow it to a mechanic and from the mechanics observation he said that there's no compression thus the reason why it wont start...He also said that the valves could be bent and lots more too but until he can pull the motor to bits, he cant give a good estimate... but he knows it will be expensive.

Now, would it be better to rebuild or buy a half cut (better value for money and reliability)? any suggestions would be great.

thanks heaps again..

Regards

Steve

Edited by Scooby_Steve

another option to consider is just buy a second hand long motor, no point getting the whole front cut when you only need the motor....just jap can supply then pretty cheap I paid under $2k for mine

the problem with rebuilding that one if it is really dead is that you might have issues with the block, crank, oil system that you might not know until it is apart.

Hi,

I'll let my friend now as yeah he will be a bit short on cash as he did just buy his car... so this maybe a good option.

Also how did you find these second motors? are they fairly reliable and are they generally in good working conditions?? just dont want the same thing to happen to him again.

thanks

The motor I got was fine, it was out of an auto 33 gtst which i figured gave me a better chance of it having had an easy life. Was an older motor series 1, just swapped the ignition system across from the busted s2 motor, so it doesnt matter what you get.

ran fine once it was installed. compression was acceptable but not brand new of course.

I am pretty sure that there is a garauntee on the motors but as benl1981 said they would only cover the motor not labour.

Hi,

thanks guys... i'll let him know and maybe we can find a good second hand motor...

Lastly, with the car not being able to start, the oil level hasnt dropped and there seems to be no oil patches on the floor either so hopefully this can shed some light.. but i will point him towards another motor anyway.

Edited by Scooby_Steve

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