Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey evry1,

I'm not a regular poster on here as i hav a 180 and am regularly on ns.com.

I want ur opinions on wat car to get next...iv been planning this for so long and its basically come to the time where i either do something or shut up.

So my options are down to another 180 except this time a nice late model TYPE-X or a R32 GTR.

Now their both in roughly the same price range so theres no problem there but im trying to weigh up evrything and convince myself.

The Age difference is a big factor as the GTR's im looking at are '90 compared to the 180 whcij is a '97...that aside, its funny as the GTR's hav ridiculously low km's <100k (probly due to winding bak) while the type-x (due to its "non-tamperable" digital odo) has a lil over 100k.

Iv always loved 180's and 32GTR's and personally think they are both quite good looking cars...but im finding myself not looking so much at the looks of the car as much as i used to or interested in wizz-bang audio etc (a case of been there, done that). Im looking at something thats is reliable yet excites me evrytime i jump on the pedal. Something that wont b having problems evry 2 weeks and wont need a rebuild even if i run 250kw atw day-in-day-out.

I do love the 'throwable' nature of the 180s but the GTR...well theres something about the fact that u can go into a corner where in a FWD/RWD car the thoughts running threw ur head would b "well im farked...i wonder how much the repair bill will b..." but instead in the GTR, u get a rush of power to the front wheels and ur pinned bak in ur seat as u get winched out of the corner.

It is a hard choice but hopefuly with some suggestions from here and areas that i should b thinking about it should help. Also any info such as avergae fuel consumption would b great.

Thanks and sory bout long post

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90644-choosing-180-vs-32/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...