Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok here is the problem, i have no power above 2500 revs, it will go up to here fine then once it hits that point then it will just stop like it is not getting any pertol. When it is doing this problem it will idle at about 1500 - 2000 revs instead of 500 - 1000 revs. Now this does not happen every time i drive the car and there is no common pattern that makes it do it.

I have had the car services and the mechanics cleaned out the injectors, put a new fuel pump in, checked the fuel pump, changed spark plugs and a heap of other things and could not find anything that is making the problem.

The car is a r32 gts-t (rb20det) with a 3" exausht from turbo and a 5" tip, and a HKS pod filter. Any help would be great as it is making the car so hard to drive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90708-annoying-problem/
Share on other sites

The 5" tip is your problem - too much bling for a R32 GTSt.

Seriously, though, if you searched these forums you would have been able to uncover that fact that a dead or dying AFM (Air Flow Meter) will set the ECU into limp-home mode and will not permit the engine to rev at more than 2500.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90708-annoying-problem/#findComment-1633914
Share on other sites

my bad its only 4"

Hehe, in that case maybe you need it upgraded to 5" ;)

Seriously though, it's almost certainly an AFM problem. I've had a similar thing happen when I accidentally yoinked out my S-AFC awhile ago, which among other things, severs the signal wire from the AFM. I also recently have my AFM die a half-arsed death, which resulted in the car being unable to idle, although I could get above 2500rpm in that case by keeping the throttle open.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90708-annoying-problem/#findComment-1634188
Share on other sites

Why not just run an ecu diagnostic rather than playing guessing games to see what your problem is? That will give you a definative answer to if your car has a bung AFM. Idling problems can be caused by an excessive amount of things just to name a few dirty/in-op/incorrectly set AAC valve, incorrectly set idle via throttle plate, carbon buildup on throttle plate, AFM problems, air regulator and the list goes on....

Do a seach and that should fix your problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90708-annoying-problem/#findComment-1634265
Share on other sites

Second hand should be around $150 or less. Try Ebay, you might be lucky. If not then JustJap should have one and they deliver too. Test it before you go and buy one first, it could just be a bad connector or something. See if you can borrow a known working one from someone and hook it up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90708-annoying-problem/#findComment-1634395
Share on other sites

Going to the mechanics tomorrow to have it hooked up to a diagnostics computer. Hopefully it is just a bad connector as this will take away money from my FMIC ;)

What would cause it to go into limp-home mode, as it doesnt always have the problem?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/90708-annoying-problem/#findComment-1634419
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...